The damage you see in the above photo is called Vertcillium Wilt. Verticillium wilt attacks all kinds of plants, usually with devastating results. I’ve had it attack at least three if not four of my pretty mature Japanese maples.
Verticillium Wilt is a soil borne, fungal type of disease that affects the plants ability to move water to certain parts of a plant, causing that section of the plant to fail, the die. There is no chemical control, prevention or cure. It’s just something that happens, but . . . but . . . but . . . it is not the end of your tree!
I’ve had this happen to at least four Lace leaf weeping Japanese maples in my landscape and it’s happened over a period of time. I’ve read all kinds of explanations of what exactly is going on in the soil to cause this, but quite honestly, in all four cases my soil conditions were different, never soggy, just different soils. Didn’t matter, it still occurred.
You can take my opinion for what it’s worth and my only qualifications to offer such an opinion is to say that I’ve not studied a great deal about plants but I’ve spent the better part of my life, starting at the age of sixteen, I’m 63 today, crawling around in the dirt, working with plants on a daily basis. You can not stare at that much dirt and that many plants and learn valuable things through shear observation. Often times, those observations are more accurate that what you find written in text books.
My opinion about Verticillium Wilt on Japanese maples?
There is nothing you can do to prevent it and there really is no cure for it except to prune it out of your plant.
There are certain ground rules for planting and caring for Japanese maples and I’ll cover those here. If you follow these recommendations I think you can be assured that you have done everything you can to give your Japanese maples a good home. But Verticillium Wilt can still occur and it is certainly going to be heart breaking, but in most cases the trees can and will recover nicely.
Things to know about planting Japanese maples.
- Japanese maples are an under-story tree and when young they really don’t care for or often don’t do well in full sun. Part shade, part sun is where they are the happiest. Too much shade and they will turn green and lose their beautiful colors.
- Japanese maples hate wet feet! Do not plant them in a wet area, or an area where a downspout drains. They love soil that is mostly dry, just moist enough to give them the moisture they need. Never soggy, simply cool and moist to the touch.
- Like all plants, Japanese maples will fail quickly if you plant them too deep. It will kill them! Whether your tree is balled in burlap or in a container there is a root crown right at the soil level. When planted that root crown should actually be about 1.5 inches above grade if not higher. Then mound the soil up and over the root ball.
- Mulch the tree with about 2″ of bark mulch too keep the soil around the roots cool and moist.
- Do not pile mulch up around the stem of the tree. It will rot the bark and kill the tree.
- Stake the tree for at least a year so the roots can get established without the wind rocking the tree back and forth constantly.
- If planting your tree in clay soil it’s best to plant it even a little higher than described here and back fill around the root ball with the clay that you removed from the hole.
- After reading #7 you now know that I am bona fide crazy and full of you know what. What kind of advice is that?!!! It’s good advice, that’s what it is! If you dig a hole bigger than the root ball in clay soil, then back fill around that root ball with some kind of loose, porous material all you are doing is allowing excessive water to enter your planting hole with no way for that water to escape. It’s like filling the bathtub with water and submerging your plant in that water.
- Here’s a little known fact that most people don’t understand. Plants, just like people, will drown when submerged in water for an extended period of time. The roots of a plant need to breath. The roots have to be able to transfer oxygen from the air, through the soil, to the roots. If they can’t because the roots are surrounded by standing water that plant is going to die.
- Fertilizer is worse than heroin or fentanyl! The plants in your landscape do not need fertilizer. I never fertilize the plants in my landscape at home, or in the landscape plantings around my nursery. They just don’t need it and too much can and will kill them. Especially Japanese maples! They don’t even know what to do with fertilizer!
- Don’t believe me? Look here! Those plants have never been fertilized!
- Water your Japanese maple as needed. When first planted it will need some water two or three times a week. Not a million gallons of water! Stick your finger in the soil. If it’s dry, water. If it’s cool and moist or soggy don’t water. If you get into a hot and dry situation water your Japanese maple and other plants in your landscape thoroughly about every 9 days.
Back to Verticillium Wilt on Japanese maples!
If your Japanese maple suddenly has a large branch, or a pretty big section of the tree that appears to suddenly just up and die. More than likely it’s Verticillium Wilt. It usually starts with some discolored leaves, then the leaves turn brown and crispy and often will not drop from the tree right away. They just curl up and turn brown and crispy and often stay on the branch. Once your tree gets to this point it’s probably too late to save that particular section of the tree or that branch. Before you remove any branches do a scratch test to make sure that they are dead.
This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead. Once that tissue below the bark becomes brown and mushy there is no saving that part of your plant.
As I mentioned earlier in this article, I’ve experienced Verticillium Wilt on several of the Japanese maples in my landscape and in each case I was able to prune away the dead part of the plant and eventually have the trees make a really nice recovery. After pruning you are obviously left with a big gaping hole in your plant, but you’d be surprised at how fast it will completely fill in. I’m not talking days, weeks or months. It is going to take at least two or three years to fill in nicely. But it’s always worth the wait to save a beautiful Japanese maple.
Japanese maples have really hard wood so you will need really sharp shears of maybe even a pruning saw to remove the dead branches.
Sterilize your tools as you prune!
Before you start pruning clean up the blades of your pruning tools with alcohol wipes or something else suitable. Then clean the blades after each cut.
Do I do that? No. I’m a maniac! I’ve never done that. But I recommend that you do as I say, not as I do. I take chances.
Questions, comments or mean things to say? Post them below and I will respond.
Hi, Mike.
Thanks for your public spirited help. I wish I had seen your postings earlier. I might have been able to save more of our Japanese maple. After some attempts at minor interventions over a couple of years, recently I took what I thought was a radical step and pruned to just below all the parts that were dead and blackish looking. Very soon afterwards, the tree exploded with growth all over the tree. What is odd is how different the new growth is. I don’t know the specific type of Japanese maple, but it has been growing in a large planter for 5 or 6 years in a largely vertical manner, with some spreading. The new growth is all of a beautiful weeping sort. I like it very much, but I fear it may be a symptom of a disease. Have you had any experience like this? Thanks.
Arthur
Arthur,
Probably not disease. Maybe the part that you cut away was a sucker from years ago and now what you have is the actually desired variety. See this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDFbMHOtcK0
Hello Mike,
Great information on your video.
I have a maple just like yours on your video that I inherited with my home. Last year was a dry summer and I noticed some leaf curling in different locations on new growth during the summer.. The difference between the seasons last year was dry this year has been in stop rain this summer.
This year I was proactive as to prune the dead branches off the tree and keeping a close eye. Same problem arose, I began spraying the tree with an organic solution composed of dawn and some baking soda once a week for about a month. When the next growth emerged I noticed less leaf curling on the new growth and was constantly looking for an smaller dead branches to remove.
Here is my question if my maple the same as yours doesn’t have a large area that is dead but only the leaves curling in different locations is there a way to promote more to outpace the Verticillium. Fungus.
I read Magnesium spikes for Maple trees may work. Have you ever tried these?
What would you recommend I do if there are no dead branches but leaves that will pop up with new growth that curl?
Can I do some things to be proactive to give the tree a chance to beat the fungus and regain its health besides pruning away dried-off dead limbs?
Should I continue the organic spray solution I was recommended on a tree care app?
Thanks for your time, and keep up the good work.
Andy,
In all honesty it sounds like you are way over caring for that tree. I really don’t think there is anything to prevent disease. It either happens or it doesn’t. My very healthy Japanese maple get zero care. No fertilizers, no sprays, only pruning to keep new growth under control so they don’t get too big in my landscape. I also have mature maples at the nursery that we simply prune once a year. That’s it. Even those that I am growing to sell. Pruning once a year.
You are the only source of hope I have for my gorgeous 40ft mature multistem Japanese maple… Everyone else seems to be certain that I am watching it’s slow demise. It started showing signs of wilt for the last two years. Large branches are completely dying off/dead, the rest of the tree still looks good. I wonder, since the fungus is attacking the tree at the roots, is pruning out the dead branches just for cosmetic reasons? Or does it actually somehow control the spread? Have you seen any mature maples make a full recovery, or do you just keep cutting the dead branches off?
Soni,
The only thing that I’ve ever done was removed pretty big damaged branches and the rest of the tree did fine for years. Good advice or bad I really don’t know. Possible contact somebody at a university with a horticulture program.
Mike, Thanks for this plain english explanation of the Wilt that I’m seeing on one of our Bloodgood Japanese Maples.
My question is, will I do harm to the healthy parts of my tree by removing the dead branches now, in late Spring? Should I wait until the leaves on the healthy part of the tree fall off and the plant is dormant?
By the way, our J-Maples are like a member of the family, planted as sprigs they’re now 15 yrs old and are envied by our neighbors so I want to do what’s right for them. Thank you
Carolyn,
You can remove that dead wood at any time.
We have a potted Japanese maple that does not seem to be growing as well as in previous years. We just took it out of its pot to give it new soil and noticed bugs that look like termites, but my husband felt like it would be an odd place for termites. Any advice on what we can do? Our tree was given to us when we lost our son, so we keep it potted for when we have to move and also I want to do whatever I can to keep it growing. Thank you for any advice
Termites don’t eat live wood that I know of. Fertilize it with Osmocote, only Osmocote. 2 tablespoons. Once a year is enough. Maybe a bigger pot, better soil. They like light soil that drains well.
Hi Mike, thanks for the article, it is good to know that the trees can be saved. I would like to ask when I should prune out the dead branches on my maple tree? Now, in spring, or next autumn when the leaves have fallen off. Thanks for your time.
Ricky,
Remove any dead branches as soon as you know they are dead. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
Hi, it appears my Inabe Shidare tree developed Verticillium Wilt late last summer. I didn’t know at the time what was happening to it and all the leaves eventually dropped. I was hoping for new growth this spring but nothing. All the branches look dead. I was getting ready to pull it out today and noticed that I am getting new growth at the base of the tree — I think growing from the root system. My trunk is green at the base but there is nothing on the main tree. I there anything I can do to salvage the new growth?
Ann,
It sounds like that new growth is coming from the root stock and will looking nothing like Inabe Shidare.
My Bloodgood JP has done the exact same thing. It wasn’t very big to begin with, about 3 1/2 ft. tall.
Hey Mike, thanks for all the good information on Japanese maples. I have an older tree that has several large limbs that are dead. Do i cut them back to the base of the dead limbs or leave a bit? These limbs are 4-6 diameter.
Thx!
Bob,
I’d probably cut them back removing all the dead wood. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
I have a 12 year old bloodgood Japanese maple that looked amazing last year, this year the leaf buds fell off of about half of the tree leaving it quite defoliated. The tree has a large canker near the base that has been there for a few years after it grew very rapidly during a cool summer and, upon closer inspection, has Japanese maple scale (which I was not aware was in Massachusetts). The scale is in the process of being treated but would scale alone cause significant leaf bud drop or could I also be looking at wilt. Thank you!
Nicole,
Probably wilt. Remove dead branches. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
We moved a 15 year old Japanese maple tree 2 years ago. After moving in the autumn all of it leafed the following spring but in the summer half of the trees leaves wilted and fell. Now half of the tree has not grown leaves and looms to be dead. Do you think this is wilt or could it be something else. As half the tree is healthy I don’t want to damage it further. Thanks
Ann,
If those branches are dead simply remove them and the tree is likely to recover just fine. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
I lost a 20 year old Bloodgood maple due to termites. Has Anyone else had this problem ?
Joel,
It is my understanding that termites do not eat live wood. I’m thinking the tree had issues before the termites found it.
Thanks for the very helpful post Mike
I have a 20+!year old Japanese maple. It has 2 main branches, one of them died last year as it did not bloom at all and this year the bark is falling off.
Not sure if cutting of basically half the tree would save the healthy side
Any recommendations?
Thanks
Lino
Lino,
If that branch is in fact dead, I would remove it. You might be surprised, the rest of the tree may flourish.
I have a 6 year old tree that has suddenly started to lose very small branches/clusters of leaves. The leaves are healthy looking and the branch appears to be as well. Thoughts?
Lee,
No ideas at this point.
Thanks for the info. I had a beautiful lace leaf living in a pot for quite a few years and suddenly 2 years ago, half the tree died. I was very confident at the time it was Verticillium and trimmed it way back. The branch was one of two main branches, and it was the bigger of the two. It has come back although the branch left is very small. The poor thing is very lopsided and tiny now. Is there good way to stimulate growth in the other side of the trunk, or even graft a branch in?
Jessica,
Probably not. I think it will eventually fill in nicely. I’ve had it happen to more than one and they did fill in.
Hu Mike, I bought the Japanese maple in May this year. Planted in my backyard. But the leaves are turning brown and edge of the leave part is dried. Please advise me how to bring back my tree.
Premila,
It sounds like it dried out at some point. Do not fertilize, just water as needed and hope for the best. It should survive.
Hi Mike,
About six years ago we bought a home, to some extent because there is a triplet of very mature Japanese maples in the front. Everyone comments that they are spectacular. They were 30 feet tall and 60 wide as a group. The water line broke and the contractor trenched along the base of one of the trees. This was after I said that this approach will damage the tree and it needed to be done trenchless. I came home from work and he had dug the trench. The trees have been slowly dying ever since. First the one right on the trench fully succumbed over three years, and now half of the middle one. It is hard to look at it knowing what it was, but I look at it every day. What can I do to stabilize the remaining trees? Did the contractor expose the roots to verticillium? The leaves on a dying branch curl, turn rust red and hang on. The nail scratch test shows no life.
Thanks for your help.
Donald,
All you can do is trim off any dead or sick wood and hope for the best.
Hello!
I have a two year old Japanese maple (dwarf). One of our children ran it over and partially snapped in half. There are four branches growing out of the side. I cut back all of the dead. What is left on the tree is alive and healthy. Where do I go from here? Should I prune the remaining branches way back?
Thank you!
Paige,
I would not prune those branches way back, maybe prune them a little and give the tree time. It’s going to take a couple of years before it looks good again, but worth it.
Hi Mike,
We have two Japanese maple trees that were planted 2 years ago. When they were quite young. The gardener pruned them a bit which I have read is not a good idea when they are this young. One of the tress is great, the other 15 feet away looks great except the two tallest shoots which did not get leaves back. We are in zone 8-9. The shoots/branches are not dead and one of them has a couple tiny branches down low that have leaves. We live in a coastal town and the soil is very clay like. Both of our trees looked beautiful last year and we have watered them the same so I don’t think it’s a watering issue or a planting issue unless that has a very delayed effect. Any advise would b3 much appreciated!
Elyse
Elyse,
Pruning young trees is always a good idea. They need it. In clay soil my biggest concern is that they are not too wet or planted too deep. The root grown should be just one inch below the soil.
Hi mike my beautiful purple acer (20 years old) has a bough at the back of the tree that’s white with no growth, it’s come into growth every where else and I even have flowers and regularly have seeds, what should I do about the white bough with no growth?
Sandra,
If that wood is dead all you can do is cut it out and the tree will eventually fill back in. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
My Japanese maple was planted just under 2 years ago. Half of the tree did not leaf this spring including the main stem. I have a couple of months to dig it up and return to the nursery for $300. Or should I prune it and hope that the live parts of the tree will not also decline? The red bark has turned white largely, but I asked the nursery and I was told this is rather normal. Do you think the tree might be diseased? This tree is called red dawn full moon.
Judy,
Not really normal, if they offer a guarantee you need to take the tree back.
Help! Just noticed our 23 year old Japanese maple looks like it’s dying. All under the canopy, which usually goes to the ground and it isn’t, the branches are white and crispy. Other branches are both white and crispy and green. Is it too late to save it?
Shana,
All you can do is remove dead wood. Not much else can be done to save a tree that old. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
ok. so yes I am DEVASTATED. I was not at all familiar with my Japanese Maple. I noticed a couple branches die. This year it did not bloom at all. I think I stifled the roots and I hope I have not completely killed the tree. can I now prune all of these branches and wait a few years for it to bloom again? Its about 9 feet tall but it did not bloom at all this year yet. I noticed all of the other Japanese Maples in my area are blooming nicely. PLEASE HELP. I am COMPLETELY DEVASTATED as it was my FAVORITE TREE EVER.
Suzanna,
Doesn’t sound good. Check to see if it’s alive at all. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
North of SF, zone 9. Small red Japanese maple about 4 years old. Center section has bare branches. Two main side branches leaves look good, but we see another side branch with no leaves. Scratch test: center branches white and firm. Side branches pale green and firm. Trunk perhaps a bit greener. Also new suckers appearing from trunk. How should we proceed? Basically could have two stretched out arms of red leaves, and no center section. Should we let suckers grow? Thanks very much for your help and advice
DW,
Once you determine that those branches are in fact dead with the scratch test remove them. As far as the suckers go, I’d probably remove them no matter what. But if they are coming from below the graft union you should for sure remove them. See this for details about that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDFbMHOtcK0
Mine is dying underneath. Should I prune all of those branches back? Large weeping bush the hands dot the ground. Is about 14 years old.
Lois
Lois,
Remove all the dead wood and lightly trim the rest of the tree so it fills in nicely.
So nice to find a friendly expert!
I have two maple trees. The oldest one is about 15 years. I noticed the bark was splitting and the leaves were falling off and it was looking really spindly. I took a closer look and I realised that over the years the mulch had piled up and the tree trunk was buried about a foot above the root ball. Argh! So I’ve raked off the soil now to expose the root ball, given it a good water and crossed my fingers.
The second tree is only a couple of years old, and has had a bit of dieback – two main branches on one side have died. After the root ball problem with the older tree, I decided to check on this one, and found there is a big root wrapping around the trunk, just below the soil, on the same side as the dieback. Is this the problem?
I’m thinking, as it’s still a reasonably young, to lift this one out of the soil and prune this big root off, and then replant. Does this sound sensible to you? Can you tell what else might be the problem? I’d love your feedback, on both trees.
Thanks Mike!
Carolyn,
I think you’ve done all you can for the first tree. The second tree? At the very least I’d cut that root that is going around the stem. You don’t really have to remove it, maybe cut out one inch and that will kill the root and it will lose it’s grip.
Hello, I live in New Zealand and have a struggling Japanese maple. It was only planted about 3 months ago (it was about 4-5ft tall), but already I have lost about a one-third section of the tree as the leaves turned brown and died. Some of the other leaves still on the tree seem to have rust-looking orange spots on them, so I’m trying to see if they will eventually die too. I pruned off the branches with the dead leaves and the branches were definitely dead. At first I thought it might have been the wilt, but after reading your article, now I’m wondering if it was overwatering…plus we’ve had quite a wet spring here this year. (It’s suppose to be summer now, but we’ve had more rain and high winds). I noticed at the base of the trunk. it seems to be a blackish color for about 2-3 inches…I’m wondering also if I planted the tree too deep and I had the mulch going up to the trunk, which could have also done damage. Any thoughts/tips/advice would be appreciated….especially about the rust/orange looking spots on the leaves. Many thanks
Kath,
It’s only been in the ground for 3 months and struggling. It is not rooted in. Lift it out and make sure it’s planted high enough, root ball should be at least one inch above grade, back fill with the soil from the origninal hole, not porous material that will allow water to stand in the hole. I really don’t think it’s too wet or too deep, that usually won’t kill branches that quickly. Usually the entire tree will defoliate first. While you have it out maybe take it back to the place where you got it and consult with them. ????
my two Japanese lacy leaf trees are 40 years old…always stunning. Suddenly, this season all of the leaves are falling off in large clusters. This has never happened before. They are now over 50% totally denuded. The branches appear fine.
Please!!! Help!!!
Dorothy,
At this point I would not be concerned, they should be losing all of their leaves now. Just wait til spring and see how they look. Even if there were an issue, there’s probably nothing you can do to change the out come. I think they are fine.
Wow! You are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
A bit off subject but I’m getting conflicting information. What size pot will my Japanese Maples enjoy? Will a pot much larger hurt the tree or will they like having room to grow? Also, is a wider pot more to their liking than a tall but narrower one?
Thanks again!
Heather, A wider pot is better, but in the ground is the best.
Hi Mike, I am in Windsor , Ontario.
I have a 60+ years old ornament Japanese Maple. and there are some dead branches.
When we trimmed the big dead branches last month, there are holes with saw dust inside. I put wire inside to test, and it is deep.
I hope very much that this tree can be saved.
Please advice
Kim,
Clearing some kind of boring insect has invaded your tree. You can try some kind of systemic insecticide to kill the borers.
Hi, my acer plant is loosing lot of leaves and drying up. Can i share a picture and see what can be done to avoid aby further damage?
Ishwari,
More importantly what kind of climate are you in? Here in the north all Acers are losing their leaves.
Hi Mike,
I moved into my home 7 years ago and inherited a dwarf Japanese maple tree with the purchase of the house. Just a few weeks ago I noticed a greenish white substance growing on the branches of the Japanese maple.. I , also, noticed that a section of the tree with the substance on it appeared to be dead.
I cut the dead branches off but there are some branches left that still have the greenish white substance on them and the leaves on these branches look very curly.
I am looking for advice about how I should handle this issue with my tree. Also, next to the tree is a hydrangea bush which has leaves with circular brown spots on it.
Thanks,
Jane
Jane,
That white substance could be some kind of a mildew, maybe because the wood is dead. Or it could be a scale insect that is sucking on the tree. Scale insect build white bunkers that they hide under while they attack a plant. The hydrangea I wouldn’t be concerned about. Those leafs will be dropping soon.
Hi Mike I just purchased a Green Mist Japanese Maple tree. I am curious as to how far I should plant it from my foundation at the corner of my house. Are these a slow growing type of tree and I see that the branches tend to angle downward somewhat like a weeping willow. Is it safe to put spilled wine weigela shrubs around the base of it? Also do I have to worry about this disease you have mentioned above with branches dying off?
Jackie,
Green Mist is a weeping variety. I’d keep it about 6′ or 7′ from the house so it has plenty of room to spread out. Don’t be afraid to trim this tree for shape so it gets nice and full. The weigela will be fine, just keep them far enough from the tree so they don’t end up underneath of it. Disease? Don’t worry about it, just enjoy your tree.
Hi Mike
Thank you so much for these easy-to-follow videos. They are very informative and understandable.
I am concerned about a Japanese maple I have in my front yard. The tree (as well as neighboring rise bushes) has a white covering on its branches and trunk. Last summer most of the leaves turned brown and crispy. They have grown back pretty well this year but are dull in color. Now I am noticing cracking in the bark on upper branches that face upward to the sky where no leaves have returned this year.
I so do not want to lose this tree but I am at a loss as to what’s going on and what to do about it.
I live in NC. The soil is sandy so we have added new tip soil. Our yard is slightly inclined with the tree on the down plow path.
Any ideas, advice would be great. I really appreciate your help..
Deborah,
Make sure that you did not put topsoil too deep over the roots, up on the trunk of the tree. There should be no soil on the trunk of the tree. If those cracked branches are dead, remove them. The white could be powdery mildew, a condition from too much water or high humidity. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
Thanks so much for this straight forward information, I currently have 22 Japanese maples in my urban garden. Eight of them are Lions Heads, and I’ve never had that happen to them (and wanted to share that with your readers), but over the past 29 years it’s happened to at least 5 trees.
The first time it happened, a nursery I frequent told me to dig up the tree, that it was a goner. Since then, I’ve naturally done what you are recommending. Last year I noticed my prized Koto No Ito was more than 50% affected, including one of the main leader branches. I was absolutely devastated.
Two months later my tree is recovering. It does look weird but I’m resisting trimming anything until I see how my favorite tree fills out. Thanks again, just wanted to let you know I agree with your advise.
Thank you Robynne,
The tree that I showed in this article is alive and thriving. After removing the affected branches the rest of the tree has responded really well.
Hi Mike. I don’t know where else to send my question & by the way, I love your style & video.
My question is this: can I save a completely severed main branch with lots of foliage on a beautiful weeping Japanese maple?
What can I do, if anything?
Also, what type of Japanese maple would you recommend for Midwest-Chicago area, protected from wind- I’m in a suburb with lots of surrounding trees & houses.
My house faces west but because there will be a tall parking garage built just across the street next year & I have 2 tall trees, I would only get about 3-3.5 hrs of sun 11:30-3p-ish
I want a unique tree with lots of color & style & one that will stay relatively small (6-8’ or top at 10’).
Thank you so much!
-Mariana
Mariana,
No, there really is no hope to saving that branch. Consider a weeping Japanese maple in the dissectum family. Crimson Queen, Ever Red, Water Fall, Virdis or Lion’s Heads. You can probably search each of those on this site using the search box on the left.
Mike, I had a coral bark maple it was growing great for 3 years I notice the leaves started to turn yellow in spring then they wilted and dried up the branches went dry and the tips broke like old dead wood then the whole tree was dead I pull it out planted some monks hood there no problems. I have other plants and 2 lace leaf maple in the same area, What happen?
Martin,
I really don’t know.
Hi Mike! I have one branch that just doesn’t seem to want to push new leaves this spring. The branch is alive (green underneath the bark) and the rest of the tree is covered in leaves and pushing new growth every day. Should I wait it out? Print the branch off? Esthetically it doesn’t look the best, but I’m also worried about it being something that might spread. Thanks!
Ann,
Good question. Could be frost damage but it’s something else it would pay to remove the branch sooner rather than later.
Hi there, Japanese maple planted 2 yrs ago. About half of the upper tree died over the winter. We pruned all dead branches and had to take top 1/4 of the main branch as well. The main branch is now exposed at the cutting. Should that be left alone or is there a product that helps protect that cut (approx 1.5inch diameter)? Thanks Sally
Sally,
It should be fine, sealing is no longer considered important.
Hi Mike, I have a Japanese Maple. My question is two fold: First, during the spring when leaves sprout and if another cold spell hits, then they die and do not grow back. Is that normal and is there anything that can be done to prevent it? Secondly, I do have some dead sections. If I trim them, will they grow back? I have had the tree for 15 years but is just a little disheartening to see bald spots. Is there any fertilizer you recommend?
Gurjit,
Remove the dead branches and the tree will fill in. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead. I really don’t fertilize any of the plants in my landscape. Never have, you’ve seen the photos. Pretty hard to protect a tree from freezing.
I transplanted 150 Bloodgood japanese maples 8 to 12 8nch barefoot about 3 weeks ago into 1 and 2 gallon pots most have started leafing on the lower stem.. all nice red color but many of them have died at top half of main leader I assume maybe my soil mix isn’t giving enough aeration idk but should I just top them to nearest living node? Thank you Ryan oklahoma
Ryan,
Sure you can clip that dead portion off but make sure your soil mix drains well and also that the plants are not too deep in the pots. There should only be about an inch of soil over the roots.
Thanks for info on clipping them also would it be ok to repot them all up again now? And fix soil? I just started nursery 1 month ago i potted 150 maples 50 blue spruce 50 red bud 50 dogwood 20 red prince 20 variegated weigiela 200 pecan 50 of 4 diff rose of Sharon’s and 120 privets I used all same mix most are breaking dormancy idk first time to do this worked for a nursery a year but just did all the bunching and loading trucks so just been reading your stuff thanks again
Hi Mike
Thank you for sharing you’re knowledge about gardening .
I own a dwarf Japanese maple tree with delicate leaves .
I noticed this year a fungus like growth on some branches .in addition
On another area there are white dead branches .
Which I removed .
Any suggestion as how to remedy those branches that have the fungus on them ?
Thank you for taking the time to respond.
It is really appreciated .
Thank you Mike .
Adina,
Try a general fungicide. Could be a scale insect causing that but I don’t think so.
Mike,
I have a similar situation to another commenter where my (Viridis) Japanese Maple is dead on top with a lot of new growth halfway down the trunk. I have trimmed off the dead branches around the top but not the dead part of the trunk. Should I trim it all the way down or could that harm the living parts below it? Is there anything I can do to encourage vertical growth?
Thanks
Ken,
any branches that are dead might as well be removed. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
Hi Mike, we bought a Japanese Maple Bloodgood tree in the fall and planted a couple of days after purchasing. We have a few leaves sprouting on the bottom of the tree truck but nothing on the branches. We live in zone 6 in NJ. When we the tree start producing leaves?
Mike,
It doesn’t sound good. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for your post. It all make sense to me!
I have a Japanese maple in my backyard with the trunk consisting of 2 main branches. One side is blooming like every year, the other seems dead. The un blooming side has a large opening along its trunk.
Trimming the death side will amount to removing half the tree. Will the remaining side survive that?
Thanks for your help!
Lino,
If that branch is dead it is not going to harm the tree at all to cut it off.
My mature red lace Japanese maple’s bark is peeling. The leaves opened on the top of the tree but the bottom limbs are very thinned out with leaves. My tree has always been very hardy but this year is definitely different. Is the tree dying? I did not notice any insects, but the bark is peeling off. Is there anything I can do?
Marilyn,
Sometimes winter damage can do that. Not much to do but trim off the lose bark so water isn’t trapped under it. They often bounce back nicely, but it takes time.
Hi Mike, Thank you for your expert experience and advice. I have a weeping dwarf Japanese maple planted in the open front of my home. No other plants, trees or flowers are around it. It was planted 30 years ago. I love the lace leaf it is so delicate and beautiful. Unfortunately two summers ago I noticed on the right side of my tree that the branches looked dark and there were no new red color lace leaf blooms. It was definitely dead on that side and there is was a thick dark dead branch that was on the right side of the tree. My friend, who is Korean and knows a lot about gardening looked at it one day with me. I said do you think this whole tree is dead? He said I really don’t know. Because the left side of the tree still had the beautiful dark red lace leaf blooms leaves. Then all of a sudden my friend came over with a big saw and started sawing off the great big branch on the right that was dead. I thought oh my gosh, you talk too much away and my tree is completely lopsided.
We then dug out at the base of the tree about a foot from the root and put my hose on the ground for about an hour. My friend thought that making sure it was well watered would help it. Anyway, I know he meant well but now I have the left side of my tree that is still healthy and the right side has not come back. This summer I made sure it had enough water, we did get rain naturally; I live in Maryland. I am wondering if you have any suggestions and if the right side of the tree whatever come back. I know you say to prune it if it needs it and I have just lightly snapped off any small dead branches. I will double check again on the right side where there are some branches to see if the bark is green underneath and still healthy. I was very attached to the tree and still am. People used to complement me all the time and many of my neighbors asked me what type of tree it was when they first moved in the neighborhood. I told them a weeping Japanese dwarf maple. So now there are about 10 other homes that have them. They are beautiful and a lovely specimen tree. But now the color is no longer vibrant and I wonder if the tree will ever get it it’s umbrella like shape and beautiful color back again. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thank you and God bless you, Adrienne
Adrienne,
I know it looks lopsided, but just be patient, the rest of the tree will eventually fill in but it will take two years or more. Take photos now so you can see how much it has progressed in two years.
Mike i,v had a Japanese Maple in front of house for 20 years its alwaays looked beauitful this year half seems dead and other half is doing great.Please how do i look after the dead half
Marie,
If that half is truly dead you really have no choice but to remove those limbs. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
Hi,
My Crimson Queen maple is dying. I trimmed the dead ends but now it is really spacy and I think it on the way to death. Please help! Peggy
Peggy,
All you can do is wait. If it’s too wet or too deep it should be moved but not if it’s been planted a long time. You don’t want to severe any roots now, not until Thanksgiving when it’s dormant.
When to prune Japanese Maple
Easter,
Anytime it needs it, summer, winter, doesn’t matter.
my acer palmatum is about 20 years old it is now showing something it has never shown before around the old blossom the leaves are withering all this happen on the lower and older growth what could this be please
Rodney,
Honestly, I don’t know.
I bet you read this word alot…HELP!!!!!! I planted a Bloodgood Japanese Maple in 2015 (I’m in mid-Michigan). I’m guessing that it’s, I don’t know, 12 feet now. It got full and heavy in the middle, so after watching many videos on pruning and Bonsaid shaping, early last winter 2019, I hard pruned it because I wanted it to look more Bonsai shaped. This 2020 spring, one tiny short lower branch put out leaves but no where else. Did I kill it or is it in shock and will start producing next year? I cut about 1/4 of it out 3 years ago where it died and it filled in beautifully in 2018.. Now the hard prune. It doesn’t look like it will be leafing out this summer. Should I just wait and see what happens? I was told by the nursery in 2015 to plant it in full sun. It gets shade after 6 p.m. Your thoughts, Mr. Genius tree guy!! So glad I saw your site!
Barbara,
Heavy pruning should be done when the tree is dormant, if not it could seriously damage the tree. But you said you pruned in winter, that really shouldn’t set it back. I’d just wait it out and see what happens.
Thank you, MIke, for responding!!! You’re awesome! Since that one tiny branch leafed out, I think I’ll wait it out. It was dormant with most leaves already having fallen off so it must have been November-ish. Again, thanks!
I have a red dragon Japanese maple that was planted by my Gardner three years ago. Last year in spring I notice several bottom branches were dead and had no new growth. Those branches were trimmed off.
This year in noticed a larger area of lower branches not producing new growth and appear dead. Top branches are blooming. New growth.
Tree is in a sun shade area in front of the house. I’m afraid by this time next spring I’m going to loose these beautiful specimen.
Any suggestions.
Robert,
I don’t have any suggestions other than to prune out any dead branches. The tree in this post was severely damaged and all dead branches removed. It looks terrible. But this year it is leafing out nicely and I expect it to recover fully. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
We just planted two very young Crimson Queen Japanese Maples. We live in Alabama with that southern red clay. When planting, we mixed with planting soil and the red dirt that was dug up. That was a little over a week ago. They have since started showing signs of shock or dying, including branches that are completely dead. There is still some healthy parts of the tree and the leaves are still beautiful on the branches that are still holding on. What do you suggest for the dead branches without killing the rest of the tree? Is there any food we should add all v with watering to give it more life? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Janet,
It’s really rare for trees to fail that fast. They are either planted too deep, the hole is retaining too much water, or if a fertilizer was applied it could have seriously damaged the plants. For one, I’d raise them up so the root crown is at least 2″ above grade then mound soil over that. The soil you mixed in could make the situation worse because water is getting in too easily and not escaping.
Thank you Mike.
No saving it. Maples can outpace the disease, but it.is vascular and runs from the roots up. It’ll catch up when the tree slows down.
I’m not sure about that. I’ve had two very mature Japanese maples that were affected. I pruned out the dead branches and the trees thrived for years and are still doing well.
Please
I have two Japanese Maple trees and one has the verticillium Wilt. The other one all the top part of the tree the leaves fall off and I thought it was dead. Then it started to grow branches with leaves from the trunk. I don’t know if I should cut Off all the top branches and let the bottom ones that are living grow bigger.
What would you recommend?
I live in the Chicago area, so there is nothing I can do now but spring will be here sometime.
Thanks for your help.
Monau
Mona,
I’d wait until the tree leaves out in the spring, then remove any branches that are completely dead. This is how you test to see if a plant, or a branch on a plant has died. Just scratch the bark of your plants with your finger nail. If the tissue below the bark is green and firm your plants are fine. If the tissue is brown and mushy that part of the plant is dead.
I love roses. I have about 25 or 30 bushes plus or minus. I collected a few in the last 40 years. I am 86
years old. 2019 was a bad year for me. I has 3 serious accidents at home including a broken neck. So
my roses is all I can do now for gardening. I am slowly healing. I wish I could afford your letter, I
barely get by on social security. Both my wife and I are disabled. She also is 86.
Arthur,
Wishing you the best! Take care and enjoy those roses.
Thank you for posting this! I have a dwarf Acer Palmatum Dissectum right near the waterfall of my little pond, and every once in awhile i see this happen, just to a branch, and by habit, i cut it out after checking to make sure its really dead. Didn’t know what caused it, but I think you did! Thanks for the great info. I watch ALL your videos. You are a great teacher! Thanks again!
Thank you Cathi, I appreciate that.
In the section “Things to know about Japanese Maples, section 1,” it states that “too much shade and they will turn green and lose their beautiful colors.” Shouldn’t that say “too much sun”?
Don,
No, that statement is correct. Japanese maples in the shade lose their color and turn green. That’s pretty much true for most plants with vivid color.
This is the best advice I have ever read. You explained planting in clay soil perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to help us see how to better prepare our plants for a a more comfortable and prolonged life.
You’re welcome Angela.
Hi Mike. What are the light green plants beneath the tree?
Belinda,
Those are hosta but unfortunately I don’t remember for sure what variety they are. Possibly Happy Days??? I just don’t remember. You’d think I’d be better about keeping track but they are probably patented and I had no intention of propagation them when I planted them.
Hi Mike,
Well I just purchased 400 red Japanese Maple seedlings. I’m very nervous Bc I don’t want to do something wrong and kill them when I get them. So the probably be shipped out to me in April since I live in Pennsylvania. My question is how deep do I plant them in my raised beds? Do I leave an inch of the plant in ground or not that much? Thanks for any help I appreciate it
Robin,
Two things.
1. Depending on where you got them, they might arrive all flushed out with new growth and it’s still too cold in your zone to put them outside. If they are dormant when you get them then that’s not an issue.
2. Just barely cover the root ball with soil but keep them watered since they are planted so shallow. But you don’t not want soil up on the stems.