Mike's Backyard Nursery

The Most Fun You Can Have With Your Bibs On!

  • Home
  • Recommended Tools
  • Products
  • Categories
    • Business
      • Backyard Nursery
      • Bestselling Plants
      • Marketing
    • Gardening Tips
      • Compost
      • Containers
      • Diseases
      • Fertilize
      • General
      • Landscaping
      • Lawn
      • Pests
      • Protect
      • Pruning
      • Weeds
    • Nurseries
    • Plant Propagation
      • Cuttings
      • Division
      • Grafting
      • Seed
    • Rural Living
    • Tools
  • Contact
  • About Mike
You are here: Home / Gardening Tips / Pruning / Tree Pruning Tips and My 5-Year Experiment

Tree Pruning Tips and My 5-Year Experiment

Updated : September 22, 2015

136 Comments

It’s been over five years since we originally did this video so it’s time for an update and a follow up to how this pruning job worked out.  I went back out to this tree and took some still photos that you will see here.

 When we posted this video we received a lot of comments and commentary about the video, the information and the process.  Some really good points were made that I failed to mention in the video.

One excellent point was that it’s often better to make two cuts.  Make the first cut maybe 12″ from the tree, using the same process of making an undercut first as I show in the video so as the branch falls the bark does not get stripped down the tree.  By making a cut 12″ out away from the tree that gets the branch out of the way, and more importantly it takes the weight of the branch of of the limb when you make your final cut, assuring that the final cut will be nice and clean.

Another point that was made is that you should never make a cut that is so flush to the tree that you cut into, or remove the branch collar.  The branch collar is the mounded area around the branch where it emerges from the tree.

Tree Pruning Tips, branch collar

Tree Pruning Tips, branch collar

In the above photo, this is the same tree that I pruned in the video, but five years later.  You can see where several branches have been removed from this tree over time.  On the tree you see a leaf stuck to the tree and to the right of that a dimple in the tree.  The dimple is where I removed the branch shown in the video.  You can see that it has healed over nicely and is likely to close up completely in time.

In the same photo you can see where other branches were removed, not by me, where a stub was left and those did not heal up well at all.

Tree pruning tips, a wound that is not healing well.

Tree pruning tips, a wound that is not healing well.

In the above photo this cut was made in such a way, again not by me, that is not allowing the wound to heal over properly.  Dead wood with peeling bark is still exposed many years later.  The ideal place for insect and disease to either enter the tree or just linger.

Tree pruning tips, a wound that is not healing at all.

Tree pruning tips, a wound that is not healing at all.

The above photo is another example of pruning wound that is not heeling well at all.  Honestly I’m not sure why, I am assuming that when the cut was made the branch collar was damaged or removed leaving the tree with no means of healing itself.

As always, questions, comments and any other helpful tips from experts are welcome.  Just post them below.

Take a gander at these posts...

  • Pruning Azalea Bushes
  • Pruning Rose Bushes
  • Hydrangeas: When do I prune them? Why didn’t they flower?
  • Trim Your Burning Bush WAY BACK!!
  • Purple Sandcherry-Pruning and Propagating

Comments

  1. Darrel says

    August 23, 2020 at 3:51 pm

    Mike is okay to prune a tree anytime of year except winter of course. I have a tree I don’t know the name of the tree since it was given to me by a lady I use to work for, she did not know either, but I have two of them, one is very nice and the other one is near where I just sprayed weed and feed spray and now it has some dead leaves on it and some are alive and doing well, but others are dried and dead, all branches are alive too even the ones that have the dead leaves, this tree gets watered two or three times a week like the other same kind of tree gets, but anyway I want to prune the other one that has the dead leaves on which is usually green and very nice, when can I prune it, I also live in the desert of southern California

    Reply
    • Mike says

      August 24, 2020 at 6:16 am

      Darrel,

      That kind of pruning can really be done at any time.

      Reply
  2. Sam Li says

    March 12, 2019 at 3:45 pm

    I love what you shared about the dimple where the limb was cut and how it healed over nicely. I think that working with a pruning service that understands how to properly maintain trees is the best way to keep your trees healthy. My grandmother has some overgrown trees, so I’ll help her find a landscaping company that has the proper tools for effective pruning.

    Reply
  3. Skylar Williams says

    September 20, 2016 at 10:15 pm

    I have always wondered how to prune my trees. It seems like a lot goes into it, like what season to trim which tree. You posted about a good tip about cutting away most of it to take the pressure off for the final cut. Sadly, I won’t be pruning my trees this year, I let it get out of hand so I need to hire someone.

    Reply
  4. David B Weger says

    September 22, 2015 at 3:13 pm

    Mike, pruning a tree is like trimming your nails. The tree will seal up the proper cut. Your photo above showed a proper cut and how the tree grows over. The pic with the leaf on the trunk, left of the leaf is the tree healing from a proper cut. Every branch has a collar close to the trunk. That collar is what allows the tree to heal.

    David

    Reply
  5. Jennifer says

    September 22, 2015 at 1:15 pm

    Ack!!! Sadly, this email comes 2 days too late for my maple tree I just pruned flush. Hope it will be ok. Most branches were about the size of a dime or nickel. Thanks for the info though. Wish I would have know. About that undercut too, one of the branches tore down a bit. I know for next time though! Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Mike says

      September 23, 2015 at 8:06 am

      Jennifer,

      You’re welcome, I’m sure your tree will be fine.

      Reply
  6. Duane says

    September 22, 2015 at 12:38 pm

    Mike, Have you ever done a video on fruit tree pruning? Say an apple or peach tree. Perhaps even how to prune back one that wasn’t originally taken care of right.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      September 23, 2015 at 8:07 am

      Duane,

      I’ve written about fruit tree pruning, but not a video, we need to do that.

      Reply
  7. Rob Valderas says

    June 22, 2014 at 9:17 pm

    Thanks Mike . I didn’t know that simple technique. Makes perfect sense

    Reply
  8. Nancy says

    February 8, 2014 at 1:55 pm

    I had signed up for the interactive special about designing a website but never got the info with the link. Was it not on the 6th? Am hoping I didn’t miss it.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      February 8, 2014 at 2:08 pm

      Nancy,

      The replay is on this page.

      Reply
  9. Kay says

    July 8, 2013 at 12:46 pm

    I live in Venice, Florida, and planted a naval orange three about four years ago. It has not grown any taller than the day I planted it. It blooms around February or March and puts on little oranges. Most fall off, but the few that remain on grow to about the size of a marble or a quarter then fall off. I have not had one good orange on the tree yet. I am ready to dig it up and toss it over the fence! I have pruned it a bit, but not a lot. I am stumped as to why we are not getting oranges that will grow and mature.

    Reply
  10. Brian says

    October 29, 2012 at 10:40 am

    Mike,

    Thanks for the great pruning tip. I am a total beginner at pruning.

    Reply
  11. marg says

    October 10, 2012 at 3:44 pm

    i love these tips – so logical – my bark stripping days are over. thanks!

    Reply
  12. Craig Leffew says

    July 28, 2012 at 1:41 pm

    Mike,

    I love your video’s I’ve learned a lot since watching them. I also ordered your book great reading, my question is we generally use loppers for tree pruning such as your talking about here, of course we have a time factor involved when we prune for the customer so the lopper seems to be the most efficient method, your opinion?

    Reply
  13. Steve Tennessee says

    July 3, 2012 at 3:10 pm

    Thanks Mike: Hope to get up there in Aug.

    Reply
  14. Scott says

    October 18, 2011 at 7:09 pm

    Good tip since this weekend Iam having a large branch (12″ dia.) cut off a cedar tree. I will make sure we do that so the branch would peel down the side of the tree.The cedar tree is around 100-150 years old.We will be painting the cut with prunning paint. I plan on makeing a cedar strip canoe some day with the branch.
    Keep up the good work its inspirational. Scott

    Reply
  15. Anonymous says

    July 30, 2011 at 12:36 pm

    Thanks Mike, I will always remember this when we have trees pruned. We appreciate all the good videos you send and want you to know they are very helpful. The trees in your yard are so pretty and the landscape is very nice. Thanks again,

    Barbara

    Reply
  16. tarin says

    June 1, 2011 at 1:28 am

    What companion plants can I plant with my cucumbers, zuchs, and pumpkins to keep the aphids off

    Reply
  17. tarin says

    June 1, 2011 at 1:20 am

    My newly planted weeping cedar is turning brown what do I do? It was brutally root hacked and packed into a clay ball. Put week fertilizer in hole when planting, have been keeping it watered. In mostly sun?

    Reply
  18. adrian moore/[email protected] says

    March 25, 2011 at 10:45 pm

    Mike thank you, for your news leter. iread evey one. I have a poblem in starting japenise mayple seeds. I have all kinds of seeds. I have watch your vdio try to do it exactly, and yet,I have no indication of sprouting after 3 mouths. Is ther any time the seeds are better to be taken than others , I have seeds fome all year long. No results so far.I have learnd so moch from your letter, thank you. doc

    Reply
  19. ryan rickels says

    December 25, 2010 at 11:57 pm

    I really have enjoyed your book that I recently received as a gift. I noticed the author even took time to autograph my copy, thank you. I havnt had time for any cuttings to root but my pomegranites and live oaks from seed are sure taking off. Thanks for the tips.
    Ryan…Tx

    Reply
    • Mike says

      December 27, 2010 at 5:16 pm

      Ryan, I’m glad you are enjoying the book. Make sure you are ready to go come June to do some softwood cuttings. You’ll be amazed at how easy they root for you. Glad you appreciated the signed copy, all of the books we ship I take the time to sign.

      Reply
  20. Niki Sanders says

    December 21, 2010 at 11:42 am

    Mike:
    love the videos. How and best time to prune fig trees in Austin, Texas?

    Reply
    • Mike says

      December 22, 2010 at 7:46 pm

      Niki, I am not the person to answer that. Somebody else?

      Reply
  21. P. Barcus says

    December 20, 2010 at 1:50 am

    Mike,

    I have been a part of the Master Gardener program with the City of Austin for a couple of years. While I am by no means an expert on this subject I recently attended a seminar given by a tree pruning authority from Texas A & M University. It was very informative as we were given new information with regard to kinder pruning tips that have recently been embraced by them as being better for the tree from a “wound repairing” perspective. While they share your opinion that sealing a tree’s wound might not be necessary (maybe…save freshly pruned oak trees…in some areas, to deter the sap happy Nitidulid beetles). They have done extensive research showing that a tree “recovers” better if… rather than removing the branch as close to the trunk as possible, a small amount is left (1-3″ depending on the size of the branch being pruned). This is in an effort to create a more “positive” surface for the tree to use as it naturally repairs itself using its “scabbing” process. I am sure that their view is not written in stone as I have had plenty of trees live and thrive after having been pruned according to your instructions, although I can’t help but agree (given the examples we were shown) that the tree appears to repair faster and without the wound looking as though the tree’s new bark is rolling in upon it. Aesthetically, I certainly cannot argue with their new findings.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      December 21, 2010 at 5:52 am

      There is no shortage of ideas, opinions and scientific research to support a variety of different methods when it comes to tree pruning. In short, trees and shrubs are pretty darn resilient and will tolerate a great deal from us invading their personal space and doing surgery on them.

      Reply
  22. Paul in Michigan says

    November 2, 2010 at 1:15 pm

    Mike let say first i realy enjoy you web page and learn alot> My question is when is the best time to prune apple trees and peach or any fruit tree here in michigan it gets cold quick??? Thank you

    Reply
  23. Della says

    October 20, 2010 at 12:32 pm

    For some reason I can no longer get videos. I went to the home page as someone suggested, but when I click on a video, it doesn’t appear.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      October 20, 2010 at 8:58 pm

      Della,

      All of the videos are here: http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/ if they don’t appear it could be your computer settings or the speed of your internet connection.

      Reply
  24. Troma Gillihan says

    October 19, 2010 at 12:58 pm

    I just want to thank you for all your great information you give us. I always follow your advice on pruning and also learned today about planting grape vines. I guess I can do the same thing with raspberries? Still waiting for the bare root raspberries at the nursery. I enjoy your e-mails very much . Thanks for all your hard work!!!!!!! Troma

    Reply
  25. Anonymous says

    October 13, 2010 at 1:01 pm

    Hello Mike;

    I have watched your gardening E-Mails for awhile now. Right now I have a Genera or Century Plant it’s sometimes called. I have been told you can take startes from it and start another plant. Could you help me with this? How and when is the best time to propagate and make another plant?

    Thank You,
    Joyce

    Reply
  26. Deb says

    October 11, 2010 at 2:02 pm

    What should I do with my Canaan Fir that has dry needles and some are turning brown?

    Reply
    • Mike says

      October 11, 2010 at 6:47 pm

      Deb,

      Some dry needles, especially on the inside of the plant are normal. If it’s on the outside the plant might have spider mites, or it could have dried out over the summer.

      Reply
  27. Heather says

    October 11, 2010 at 1:59 pm

    Hi, need some help..Have a crab apple tree and noticed huge wasps boring into branch of tree.
    They are a good inch and a half long..large yellow and black heads…Seem to have taken over the entire branch of tree…How do I eliminate them without damaging the tree.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      October 11, 2010 at 6:49 pm

      Heather,

      Your best bet is to spray with an insecticide. The insecticide won’t hurt the tree as long as it’s used as labeled. Read the label to make sure you get something that will control boring insects. Don’t spray with regular wasp spray that could contain a petroleum base.

      Reply
  28. Anonymous says

    September 27, 2010 at 8:53 pm

    I picked a red tuft off a sumac plant, can I plant these as seeds and grow sumac?

    Reply
  29. Jan-New Jersey says

    September 15, 2010 at 1:41 pm

    Dear Mike:

    I hope you can help me with my Rosebud Tree. The bark is coming off the tree at the bottom and the bark will fall off the tree if you water it with high pressure from a hose. The tree looks healthy except for the peeling bark and the fact that the bottom of the tree appears to be a dull brown-orange. Is there an insect eating at the tree? If so, what can I do to save the tree? If I washed the bottom of the tree with Palmolive soap will this kill the parasites or insects? I need help ASAP to save this lovely tree.

    Thank you.

    Jan Hall
    Franklinville, NJ

    Reply
    • Deb says

      October 11, 2010 at 2:03 pm

      Mine too, but I don’t have the orange at the bottom.

      Reply
  30. Ann says

    September 7, 2010 at 12:16 pm

    Mike I want to know if I can root a magnolia limb? Thanks I love your site. This is my first time here, but I love it I love it can’t get enough of it.

    Reply
  31. Jeannie C says

    August 30, 2010 at 8:24 pm

    I know this doesn’t have anything to do with hydrangeas or the other things on your page, but you don’t give us a link for just plain questions! 🙂
    I have a young Douglas Fir – about 4′ tall or so – I planted it last year – it has grown and is beautiful (was). I also have a row of oooold Cedar along my fence-line – connecting me to a neighbor. Apparently he saw me struggling with a lawn-mower and clippers trying desperately to clean out from behind and under the cedars – especially a horrific vine (another question for another time, I guess). And so, apparently, he decided to help out and spray. Only on my side – but about 3′ deep, along the entire fence line – everything is dead – vines and all (for now) – straight line – my baby tree is about 30′ away – and all the needles are brown. Suddenly. They’re still soft, and most are still clinging to the limbs – there is SOME green left here and there, but I’m thinking his spray did this? Some needles on my cedars are browning up, but not a lot of them – please God they aren’t going to die.
    Please – is there ANYthing I can do for this beautiful tree? I’m a VERY homesick Oregonian and believed for 30 years that my Fir couldn’t grow here until I found them in a wonderful plant shop/yard. One on the east side of my house is fine – one in front (south) is fine. This is on the north – affected by spray almost directly west of it.
    If I didn’t have to stay in this house in this town, (smaaalll town) I would confront the neighbor – but I do – sooooooo………

    Reply
  32. clara guglielmi says

    August 2, 2010 at 8:48 am

    Dear Mike, I just LOVE your website. So much useful info. One question though… maybe two. Last spring my Husband purchased me two grape vines with tags on them showing wine bottles. I did not pay too much attention to this. This year, after settling in, the vines are doing terrific and are loaded with grapes. However, they are so sour when you eat one it is like sucking on a lemon. Are there other types of grapes to grow for table grapes? Neither I nor my Husband are wine drinkers and I feel completely cheated. Shouldn’t the seller have told my Husband that these are for wine making only? They were NOT cheap. Now, what do I do with these two beautiful grape vines other than make raisins? Which I highly doubt will be sweet enough ever, to eat! Many thanks for your expertise and advice in advance. Clara Guglielmi.

    Reply
    • Martavi says

      September 24, 2015 at 12:56 am

      Look for someone who knows how to graft or study it on the internet…..it is not very difficult…..then use those hale and healthy grapevines and have them used as stock for table grapes….if you are close to a university they may have someone…or a nurseryman close to you may know someone…….good luck

      Reply
    • BARI says

      September 25, 2015 at 10:13 am

      Make your soil alkaline by applying Potassium Hydroxide. Try to maintain soil pH 10 by pouring Potassium Hydroxide solution in water whose pH is 10 tested by a pH test paper.
      You will be amazed to see your grapes will be as sweet as sugar.
      Please, try this. This will definitely work. Keep me aware of the outcome. From there I will let you know more and more on problems for others.
      Thanks
      BARI

      Reply
  33. Wayne says

    July 28, 2010 at 9:40 pm

    would pruning tomato plants improve the plant

    Reply
    • Kathy says

      July 29, 2010 at 10:27 am

      Here’s an article that explains how to prune tomato plants and why it should be done:
      http://gardening-articles.com/38-prune%20and%20trellis%20your%20tomato%20pl.htm

      Kathy Anderson
      Mike’s Assistant

      Reply
    • Chris says

      December 21, 2010 at 12:25 am

      Wayne, I am a tomato enthusiast and have some growing in my cold frame right now. Pruning the suckers will concentrate the energy of the plant into fruit production instead of growing more limbs and leaves. I prune mine to single stems and train them on a bamboo trellis. Right now (Dec. 20) I have several Black Krim tomatoes in excess of 3 inches in diameter. Hope this helps. :O)

      Reply
  34. [email protected] says

    July 18, 2010 at 2:18 pm

    hello mike, i throughly enjoy your vidios, i have alot of tree pruning to do this fall. i’d love to do your backyard gardening, but the problem is noone buys plants around here, i have a 35×48 greenhouse and i did try to grow and sell plants but noone up in these hills are intrested. ohh well, this doesn’t stop me from loving my plants and i have alot of them keep the vidios coming i love them.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 19, 2010 at 8:51 pm

      I’ve yet to find a place where people don’t buy beautiful plants. Where do you live?

      Reply
  35. rick procko says

    July 15, 2010 at 5:42 am

    Thanks Mike, all your tips are great–I could talk with you all day . I have some overgrown apple trees that I would like to bring back. If you have time, maybe you could help[ me out with some tips,Thanks-Have a great day,Rick-Adams NY

    Reply
    • Kathy says

      July 15, 2010 at 9:42 am

      We have an article on Mike’s http://freeplants.com/ website that explains how to prune apple trees and how to rehabilitate an overgrown tree.
      The article can be found here: http://freeplants.com/apple-trees.htm

      Kathy Anderson
      Mike’s Assistant

      Reply
  36. alabamapapa says

    July 14, 2010 at 2:12 pm

    good video. I was wondering what about pruning blueberry bushes. My bushes have did very well here in Alabama this year, but they need to be cut back, when and how do I need to do this. Thanks

    Reply
    • Kathy says

      July 14, 2010 at 2:29 pm

      We have an article on http://freeplants.com/ that explains how to take care of blueberry bushes and how to prune them. You can learn all about blueberry bush care here: http://freeplants.com/blueberries.htm

      Kathy Anderson
      Mike’s Assistant

      Reply
  37. Bruce in Royalton Mn. says

    July 13, 2010 at 1:56 pm

    Hi Mike, Another good video. I was a little surprised that you didn’t mention the branch/bark collar,or, proper pruning times of the year for the prevention of opening trees to disease. In this neck of the woods we’re told not to trim an Oak before the first of august, and, to trim fruit trees in the mid-winter. However, your techniques are sound and go a very long way to preventing unnecessary damage to our leafy friends, I also love that saw you use. Thanks for the information and inspiration !

    Reply
  38. Jessie says

    July 13, 2010 at 1:26 pm

    I have a weeping willow tree that gets something like peach leaf curl every spring, This kills the new leaves and smaller branches. Later in the spring or early summer the new growth is then fine for the rest of the year. I have had local “experts” check it out. They don’t know what it is. I have done a microscopic exam, didn’t see anything. I even tried fertilizing with systemic rose food. The only thing that seems to help is to go remove all the damages foliage and dead branches. When I do this the next spring it isn’t as bad. I am at the point of cutting it down and burning it. Do you have any suggestions?
    I am in the Pacific Northwest on the wet side. I cannot grow peacher or apricots here. The apricot trees just die, and the peaches, even “Frost” succumb to leaf curl eventually.
    Thankd

    Reply
    • Wendy says

      September 17, 2015 at 8:09 am

      Interesting you can’t grow Frost Peach, I have one 5 years old and doing well… Produced a lot of peaches this year. I live in Snohomish County Washington.

      Reply
  39. Ben says

    July 13, 2010 at 8:32 am

    Mike,

    I just bought a piece of property that has a lot of trees and many are ash. A few have died from the ash borer. Do you know of any affordable way to prevent the others from being doomed. My wife and I bought the property well aware of this and I have heard that there are pesticides that can be applied annually but I hear they are also very expensive. Any ideas?

    Reply
  40. Deb says

    July 12, 2010 at 6:14 pm

    Hi, 2 things… 1) when is the best time of year to trim and prune trees
    2) We have a tree that we had from a seedling and it is now almost 12′. Our concern is that many trunks/branches have grown up from the base of the trunk and it looks more like a bush than a tree. Should we cut these trunks/branches off?
    thanks for your help!!!

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 12, 2010 at 10:31 pm

      Deb, yes you should cut off those branches as long as you have one good straight leader that you can use as the main stem. I trim anything anytime I want to. Really severe pruning is best when the plant is dormant, which is pretty much the winter months. But no pruning is worse than summer pruning.

      Reply
  41. Carmie says

    July 12, 2010 at 2:49 pm

    Mike, thanks so much for your advice. I planted a little lavender twist in my front yard this May (and I found your website when I was looking for information on it, so thanks!). This will be my first tree-pruning adventure. When should I prune my new baby tree? I know to remove the obvious crossing branches and those that grow inward, but don’t know how soon I should. And for a bitty tree, it’s got some huge leaves!

    Thanks again for your tips, and I wish I had known about your site before I planted last year – even numbers of plants and bushes arranged in alternating colors. Sheesh

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 12, 2010 at 10:33 pm

      Carmie, you have to trim that Lavender Twist as needed. Keep in mind, that tree thinks it’s supposed to lay on the ground and grow like a vine so if yours is small you have to train it upright to the height that you want, about 6 or 7 feet is ideal, then train the head so it grows like an umbrella. Any branch that doesn’t fit that pattern should come off. I hope that helps. By far, one of my all time favorite plants.

      Reply
      • Carmie says

        July 13, 2010 at 8:56 am

        This helps, thanks again. Nice ‘ah-ha’ there with the advice that the branches think they are vines. I am already training one of the branches as a leader so it will reach that 6 ft mark I want (I hope!). Now just have to watch and wait.

        Reply
  42. Anonymous says

    July 12, 2010 at 1:18 pm

    Thanks Mike for all you tips on tree pruning, I’ve learned a great deal from you. I pruned my Hibiscus tree and because of your tips it is growing up to be a beauty.
    Thanks again for all your advise.
    Laurie
    Pembroke Pines, FL

    Reply
  43. Connie says

    July 12, 2010 at 11:25 am

    Just another vote here for rose prunning video…thanks for info on tree prunning..been doing it already and didn’t know where you made the cut was so important….except for leaving those ugly stumps 🙂 Does it do harm that I use a plain straight saw?

    Reply
  44. Renate says

    July 12, 2010 at 10:47 am

    Hello Mike,
    always enjoying your tips and videos and this one comes right when I need this. One question I hope you can answer for me: I have a large Bradford Pear in my backyard that when still small was chewed up by my German Shepard and I thought I was going to loose it. Well, it survived and is growing strong. But because of the dog, the trunk of this tree is very short and I would like to trim the lower branches to make it look like a tree. I know that some are quite big and I don’t want to hurt this tree. Is it alright to cut the lower branches and should I seal them since the open wound will be large?
    I would really appreciate your help with this. Thanks and keep up those great ideas and tips.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 12, 2010 at 10:36 pm

      Renate, sure you can cut those larger branches. Sealing the wounds is always better than not sealing them. If you have to do a lot of pruning on the tree do a little at a time so as not to shock it too much.

      Reply
  45. Mindy Lighthipe says

    July 11, 2010 at 4:58 pm

    Great tip!
    Thanks.

    Reply
  46. Judy B says

    July 11, 2010 at 10:37 am

    Mike, thanks for the tip on pruning. I did not know this but it makes perfect sense! Thanks!

    Reply
  47. Paul in Chicago says

    July 11, 2010 at 10:02 am

    Mike, some your viewers could benefit from a video explaining the basic anatomy of the area where tree limbs meet the trunk.

    See “Careful Cutting: Pruning 101: Back to the Basics” for a picture in which the branch bark ridge and branch collar are labeled. It so happened that I took a treekeeping class in which the instructors, some of them professional arborists, repeatedly admonished us not to cut into these two areas (which rookies often do with a flush cut) but to make all final cuts at the outer edge thereof. Nor should the final cut be far beyond these areas, for in a few years you’ll end up with an unsightly, dead stub with no bark on it rather than a nice doughtnut-shaped growth over the wound where the final cut was made.

    Reply
  48. Jan says

    July 11, 2010 at 12:32 am

    I would love to see a detailed rose-pruning video, please. Thank you so very much for all the information you give us (lots of hints we don’t find anywhere else!) – and God bless you!!!!!!

    Reply
  49. Joan says

    July 10, 2010 at 11:49 pm

    Good lesson especially when the branches are very large. Usually need someone to help hold the weight of the branch up so it doesn’t bind the saw. Also, trees do not “heal”, they self “seal” if the cut is within 1/4″ of the branch collar. If the cut is made within this area, the tree will seal the wound and form a perfect “donut” around the cut which seals out any disease or prevents insects from entering the tree and doing damage. You can often see good and bad cuts on trees by looking for these “donuts” along the trunk where previous cuts were made. It will not seal if the cut is made too far away from the trunk and the tree can be damaged if the cut is made inside the collar. Even so, trees are pretty good at sealing a bad cut, but it won’t look pretty.

    Reply
  50. Mike says

    July 10, 2010 at 11:37 pm

    Hi Mike…got a six inch by 3 inch hole in the bark of an old oak tree…ants crawling around the circumferance of the hole and proceeding to crawl under the bark and appear to enter the tree between the bark and the trunk…what can I do about it? Thanks, Mike

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 11, 2010 at 10:31 pm

      Mike, trim back the bark that is loose from the tree to where it is firmly attached to the tree. Cut the edge of the bark so it tapers down to help shed water than runs across it. Probably need to treat the area for insects with a general insecticide.

      Reply
  51. Jim R says

    July 10, 2010 at 11:21 pm

    Thanks Mike for all your good information but as a Master Gardener Volunteer with OSU Extension I do have to agree with Ronda D earlier in stating not to cut too close to the limb collar to prevent injury to the tree. The new cut will also heal over sooner.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 11, 2010 at 10:33 pm

      Jim, the reason that I mentioned the flush cut is because inexperienced gardeners tend to leave ugly stubs. I agree there is fine line between close and too close.

      Reply
  52. sherry says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:17 pm

    Great help–now how about a video on ROSE PRUNING???? 🙂

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:22 pm

      Sherry, yes, I keep meaning to do a rose video! Thanks for reminding me.

      Reply
  53. [email protected] says

    July 10, 2010 at 7:51 pm

    very helpful tip !
    I have a rather large branch hanging over my roof that needs to be removed !

    Reply
  54. Hazel says

    July 10, 2010 at 5:46 pm

    Thankyou for that tip on pruning very helpful,I enjoy all you write about,,,,,,,,thanks Hazel

    Reply
  55. rosie says

    July 10, 2010 at 5:40 pm

    Great info! You went right to the point and seeing it made a whole lot of sense. How about a video on trimming bushes?

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:27 pm

      Rosie,

      Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll see what I can do.

      Reply
  56. ron harris says

    July 10, 2010 at 3:49 pm

    Remember, for heavier branches it is also good to do a “double cut”…same technique just do it twice, once to get the majority of the wait off then the second to make your perfect cut.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:27 pm

      Yes, good advice Ron. Thanks.

      Reply
  57. Madeline Almony from Maryland says

    July 10, 2010 at 3:26 pm

    I love all the tips you give us. They have been very helpful to me. I would like to know where to purchase the neat pruning saw you use in this video.

    Thanks,
    Madeline

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:28 pm

      Madeline, I picked that saw up at the hardware store in the garden section.

      Reply
  58. Loils [email protected] says

    July 10, 2010 at 3:18 pm

    I built one of your propergation bed (fish tank) and have tried cuttings and seeds and have no luck at all. tryed on screen porch with morning sun and out side nothing . Please what am I doing wrong?

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:30 pm

      Loils, What kind of cuttings are you doing. Mix plenty of perlite or vermiculite with the soil so it drains well. This system actually works great but the rooting medium must drain well. Try playbox sand. Water it well, put the top on, the water again when the sides of the aquarium have almost no beads of moisture.

      Reply
  59. Caleb Gosa (User name:WALKINGLASS) says

    July 10, 2010 at 2:16 pm

    Mike, nothing wrong with that advise because it makes sense.

    I recently planted some plum trees. What percentage of the limbs do I trim and what time of the year should I trim them?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:38 pm

      Caleb, prune your plum trees in late winter. Remove any branches that are crossing or growing toward the inside of the tree. On the outside of the tree just prune for height and shape and make sure sunlight can get to all of the branches.

      Reply
  60. Twyla says

    July 10, 2010 at 2:06 pm

    Thanks for the video, I would like to know the best time to prune apple trees, and see what they are supposed to look like when finished. Thanks Twyla from MN

    Reply
  61. Pop Pops Garden says

    July 10, 2010 at 1:59 pm

    Thanks Mike for yet another very usefull video.
    I know you are going to have to slow down things to play and have some fun in your new
    back yard nursery, But please keep the videos coming our way.

    You could never know how many headaces your videos have saved me.
    The how to use a wheel barrow video has saved me from dozens of hours of back pain
    then there is that lounge chair you showed us we have that I relax in between loads.

    Keep up the good work, my body and mind are still counting on you.
    John AKA Pop Pop

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 10:41 pm

      Pop, the plan is to keep doing videos. Stay tuned, I’m glad you enjoy them.

      Reply
  62. marie says

    July 10, 2010 at 1:31 pm

    I didn’t know about this neat trick.

    Thanks,
    Marie

    Reply
  63. Bert H Lake of The Ozarks says

    July 10, 2010 at 1:27 pm

    Mike
    Good videos & tips; keep them coming! I have used another pruning trick many, many times that I found in a document a while back. You prune the branch off very close to the trunk as in your video. Then with a sharp knife cut a vertical diamond in the bark around the stub with the diamond points above and below the stub the distance of the thickness of the pruned branch. Then remove that bark above and below the stub and trim the stub smooth against the last year growth. Spray or paint the diamond shaped wound with pruning sealer. The result will be a wound that heals quickly and beautifully without a scar or lump in your favorite shade tree!

    Reply
  64. TINA FROM DELAWARE says

    July 10, 2010 at 12:17 pm

    DEAR MIKE,
    RECENTLY, I HAD A CHERRY TREE PLANTED, YOUR VIDEO WAS MOST HELPFUL TO ME.
    THANK YOU SO MUCH….

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:24 pm

      Tina, that’s great, it’s always nice to know that what we do helps.

      Reply
  65. Vaughn says

    July 10, 2010 at 12:13 pm

    Thanks Mike, your a good guy.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:25 pm

      Vaughn, thanks, I really appreciate that.

      Reply
  66. Lisa Trepanier says

    July 10, 2010 at 12:10 pm

    Mike, Your videos are very helpful. I would love to see one on trimming and shaping young trees. I have a couple that did not do well and have quite a few dead branches and I am afraid to trim them. Thanks for all your help.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:26 pm

      Lisa, I will do one on over all tree trimming. Remind me if you don’t see it in the next couple of months.

      Reply
  67. PATTY says

    July 10, 2010 at 11:23 am

    very nice video Mike

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:27 pm

      Thank you.

      Reply
  68. Donette, St Pete Florida says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:57 am

    I’m growing some citrus & avovcado trees from seed. Do I need to pinch tips to make them branch or will they naturally branch out ?

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:30 pm

      Donetter, if you want single stem trees you actually have to make sure you have one strong leader growing straight up that will be the main stem of the tree. Then eventually you will start removing the lower branches. Don’t remove them too soon beause the leaves feed the rest of the tree. Then when the leader reaches the height where you want the branches to start, just clip the top off and that will start the lateral branching. Remove the lower branches before the reach the diameter of a dime.

      Reply
  69. Judie says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:52 am

    Thanks Mike…you’re right that little cut under the bottom makes a difference…PS..first time hearing about and seeing a pruning saw.

    Reply
  70. R C says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:32 am

    Yeah Mike I like you’re video’s but it takes a long time to watch them. They run for exactly 3 seconds then stop for 3-4 seconds then start again? I have no idea why, but it’s very aggraviating.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:32 pm

      RC, you need a faster internet connection. Video is so popular online now that you really do want a faster speed. It’s the way of the world!

      Reply
    • Dave Douglas says

      July 10, 2010 at 6:56 pm

      Hi RC,

      Sounds like you need to let it load in first. Hit the pause button and wait a while, you can watch it load in on the bar at the bottom. When the whole thing is loaded in hit the play
      button and it should play properly,

      Thanks again Mike!
      Dave

      Reply
  71. Barbara Lafleche says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:21 am

    l always find your videos interesting and we are thinking about buying a plot of land and this info will come in handy, thank you so much

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:32 pm

      Barbara, I hope you get that plot of land. I know I’ll sure enjoy my new nursery.

      Reply
  72. Richard A Irish jr ([email protected]) says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:19 am

    Thanks Mike—Look forward to Your e/mails, and love the education You leave behind. We live not very far from your home–(Erie, Pennsylvania) I am 70 years old with a head that says I’m still 30–(LOL) don’t have the energy I once had, but refuse to give up gardening,so your Web site is a welcome site to me. Have cut back quite a bit with gardening, (garden not as large as used to be), and the tips I receive from you do help to make it both enjoyable and easier. Again THANK YOU——-Dick Irish in The South, East, Erie Pennsylvania

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:35 pm

      Dick, it’s great to hear from you! Pam and I just took the grandkids to Waldameer Park week before last, and my youngest is at your local casino today. His buddy is getting married next week so all the groomsmen are in Erie for the day.

      Reply
  73. ck says

    July 10, 2010 at 10:04 am

    I HAVE A SMALL ORNAMENTAL CHERRY THAT I PLANTED 2 YRS AGO AND HAS BEEN GROWING EVERY WHICH WAY, I HAVE PRUNED BACK THE LONGEST BRANCHES UNTIL IT IS LOP SIDED. I WAS THINKING THAT WHEN IT GOES DORMANT THIS YEAR I WOULD PRUNE IT ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE NUBS AND LET IT COME BACK AS MORE OF A BUSH AS OPPOSED TO A TREE,AS THE BRANCHES ARE ONLY ABOUT AN INCH THICK AND WILL BE DORMANT AT THIS POINT WILL I NEED TO SEAL THEM.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:37 pm

      CK, Do you have to seal those cuts? No. But you can if you want to. This article will help you.
      http://gardening-articles.com/5-tree%20pruning%20tips.htm

      Reply
  74. Anonymous says

    July 10, 2010 at 9:43 am

    Thanks for all your wonderful, informative advice.. I use them all the time and am learning so much.. I would like to start my own little nursery since I have so many plants to start new ones with.. Thanks again!
    Pam

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:38 pm

      Pam, we love to have you join our family of backyard growers. It really is an amazing thing: http://freeplants.com/wanted.htm

      Reply
  75. Judith Holmes says

    July 10, 2010 at 9:39 am

    Another good video, Mike.

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:38 pm

      Thank you Judith!

      Reply
  76. Michelle says

    July 10, 2010 at 9:17 am

    Thanks for the tip on cutting the bottom first! I don’t personally use any sealants on wounds unless their would be a borer pest problem. Michelle

    Reply
  77. Janice Leith says

    July 10, 2010 at 9:00 am

    Hi MIke,
    that was a good video short and to the point. Anyway, I have a full grown maple whose trunk is separated into two parts. At that junction, the tree is rotting. Do you have any treatment to stop the rotting?
    Thanks
    Janice

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:40 pm

      Janice, I can’t say that I do other than to trim away all dead bark and debris so water that enters the area can drain away. And keep an eye on that tree. It may need to come down and you don’t want to wait until it’s too later.

      Reply
  78. Bob says

    July 10, 2010 at 8:59 am

    Thanks for the info. I will be sure to cut properly
    and save tree problems with this info! Bob

    Reply
  79. Rhonda D says

    July 10, 2010 at 8:51 am

    Nice video Mike, undercuts are the only way to go.
    We were also taught not to cut closer than the branch collar to prevent injury to the tree.

    Your new place is shaping up, it’s fun to see the progress you are making!

    Thanks for sharing 🙂

    Reply
    • Mike says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:42 pm

      Thanks Rhonda. It’s been a very slow process. I don’t get as much done as I used to and I spend a great deal of time on the Backyard Growers Message Board, so finding time is another issue. I have invited all the members to my new place for a get together in August, so I need to get some more work done!

      Reply
  80. Anne says

    July 10, 2010 at 8:44 am

    Thank you Mike. I did not know about that little trick of cutting up from the bottom first.

    Reply
  81. Wannetta says

    July 10, 2010 at 8:37 am

    Thanks Mike. Good information that I plan to use (and to save money) by doing it myself.

    Reply
    • Tami says

      July 10, 2010 at 12:59 pm

      As always, Mike– good, practical teaching from a pro. Appreciate your videos and your sharing your expertise !

      Reply
      • Tami says

        July 10, 2010 at 1:01 pm

        hey mike- is your nursery open to the public with “regular” hours ??? I live a long way away, but you never know– one of these days I may get over there ! Thanks…

        Reply
        • Mike says

          July 10, 2010 at 10:45 pm

          Tami, no we are not open to the public and probably never will be. I’m really starting over, but I’ll probably just grow for the wholesale market this time around.

          Reply
      • Donna says

        April 14, 2012 at 11:03 am

        I really appreciate u, for all the info you allow us to have, I am always in my yard when not at work, sometimes even in the rain, but i have a problem. I want to trim my pine cones in front of my home, they have grown twice in size, above my awning. Is there a way to save what has been cut, through getting them to rout again?

        Reply
    • Delores Frothingham says

      July 20, 2010 at 12:57 pm

      That was very good info that I needed. I have an Oak tree that needs to be trimmed.

      Thanks!

      Reply
      • Shirley says

        August 29, 2010 at 7:19 am

        Need help. My maple tree is 7 years old and a root is above ground toward the house. Should I be concerned. Can I cut the root off. It is about 15 ft away from the house and about 20 ft tall. It is a beautiful tree and give us shade. I would like to trim it back as it is getting too big.

        Thanks for any advice you can give.
        Shirley from Virginia

        Reply
    • Plantpatzi says

      October 4, 2010 at 11:27 am

      Mike,

      My neighbor just cut the top off her willow oak trees that line the sidewalk. These trees were only about 12-15′ tall (now about 10′). The diameter of the trunk at the cutting site is about 3″. I have seen other people do this too? Why would they do such a thing?

      There are no obstructions around (i.e. power lines) and it has now messed up the symmetry of the street trees.

      I don’t get it. Plantpatzi

      Reply
      • Mike says

        October 11, 2010 at 7:24 pm

        Removing the top of a tree forces the plant to fill out. Not sure if that’s why they did it or not.

        Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Young trees planted in organized rows, sunny landscape.

15 Fast-Growing Trees to Transform Your Yard Quickly

Posted On March 23, 2025 By Duston

The Donkey Bucket Challenge (Watch Video)

Posted On December 6, 2024 By Duston

How to Make Money Growing and Selling Mums (Chrysanthemums)

Posted On September 28, 2024 By Duston

Hydrangea cuttings stuck close together.

My Month-By-Month Plant Propagation Guide

Posted On August 24, 2024 By Duston

Mike’s Plant Farm Spring Ad

Posted On May 15, 2024 By Mike

Mike’s Big Perennial Bed by the Month.

Posted On April 27, 2023 By Mike

$180.00 per Square Foot? Is it really possible?

Posted On March 28, 2023 By Mike

Rooted cuttings of variegated weigela in bunches to harden off.

Over Wintering Rooted Cuttings.

Posted On January 8, 2023 By Mike

Mike's Big Perennial Bed.

Mike’s Big Perennial Garden

Posted On January 8, 2023 By Mike

A Profound Thank You from Mike.

Posted On September 1, 2022 By Mike

Recent Posts

Finnegan keeping the sun off his head.

An Old Guy, Two Donkeys, a Puppy and a Hammock. What could possibly go wrong?

… Read Full Article

This upside down donkey is a hoot!

An Upside Down Donkey and Cute Puppy.

You can see more of the donkeys here. And more silly donkey stuff here. Questions, comments, mean things to say? Post them below and I will respond. Until then, by any and all means stay inspired! … Read Full Article

'Rockin Raspberry' Bee Balm.

‘Rockin Raspberry’ Bee Balm.

Wow! I planted four of these 'Rockin Raspberry' Bee Balm in the perennial garden at the nursery last summer and look at them now. They are in bloom right now, end of June here in northern, Ohio and every person that sees them asks about them. This beauty … Read Full Article

'Bubblegum Blast' Bee Balm.

‘Bubblegum Blast’ Bee Balm

This beautiful Bee Balm is part of the 'Sugar Buzz' series. I planted these in my perennial bed last summer and this year they are beautiful and blooming like crazy! They grow from 16" to 24" tall, are hardy from zone 4 through zone 8. They love full sun … Read Full Article

Blue Angel Hosta.

‘Blue Angel’ Hosta.

'Blue Angel'hosta is by far one of my favorite blue hostas. A big hosta like this in a perennial bed covers a lot of area and that keeps a ton of weeds at bay! These giant heart shaped leaves are very slug resistant. We have this plant in full sun. With … Read Full Article

Copyright © 2025 · Hill Country Digital Media, LLC · Privacy Policy · Earnings Disclaimer · Terms of Service