Japanese Red Maple Trees are actually quite easy to grow from seed. In this article, I will give you step by step instructions for doing so.
A Step by Step Guide to Growing Japanese Maples from Seed.
But first, we need to chat about what kind of Japanese maple can and cannot be grown from seed.
Japanese maples grown from seed are not an exact clone of the parent plant.
It’s important to understand that not all, in fact, many Japanese maples are not grown from seed. Most of the rare, or interesting varieties of Japanese maples are actually grafted on to a Japanese maple seedling, which of course is grown from seed.
The Japanese maple in the above photos is Waterfall, which is in the dissectum family of Japanese maples. Dissectum meaning split-leaf or cut leaf. The leaves are much smaller than a regular, or generic Japanese maple and they have very interesting jagged edges. A Japanese maple like this cannot be grown from seed. It has to be budded or grafted to a seedling.
We need to have the “Sex” talk.
Growing a plant from seed is considered sexual reproduction. When a plant is grown from a cutting, a graft or a bud that is considered asexual reproduction because it that is not the way that nature intended for plants to be reproduced. Asexual reproduction produces an exact clone of the parent plant.
Without “asexual reproduction” most of the beautiful and amazing plants that we have come to love would never be known to us because there would only one of them. Asexual reproduction is how nurserymen or nursery women create hundreds and hundreds of identical plants so homeowners across the land can enjoy them.
The million-dollar question.
Mike, if a beautiful tree like the Waterfall Japanese maple can not be grown from seed, and that’s not how nature does things, where did the very first one come from?
Chance seedlings.
Great question. Every once in awhile, and I do mean every once in a while, Mother Nature gives us a gift. A chance seedling that is absolutely beautiful and looks and acts nothing like the parent plant. These chance seedlings are probably one in a million, maybe one in a hundred thousand, but for sure their arrival is completely unpredictable.
This is not a Japanese maple, but . . .
And . . . when chance seedlings do appear, a very astute gardener needs to be nearby to actually take notice and realize that something really special has happened. Honestly, when an awesome chance seedling is discovered, it is nothing short of a miracle and all of us who love and appreciate plants are better because of it.
A perfect example of that is the Lavender Twist Weeping Redbud tree. Not a Japanese maple, but a truly amazing plant that was a “chance seedling”, discovered by a very astute gardener and developed and brought to market by a very talented nurseryman. If you care to read that story you can do so here.
Growing Japanese maples from seed is exciting.
Truth be told, if you grow Japanese maples from seed, you are probably going to end up with some rather generic seedlings. Some with red leaves, some with green leaves, what most would consider “generic Japanese maples”. But there is always that chance that one of your seedlings could the most awesome Japanese maple ever!
There are more than 1,000 Japanese maple varieties in the world today, so there are plenty of chances that your seedling could be the next big variety to come to market. So let’s get started!
Step 1. Collect some Japanese maple seeds.
There a few things about collecting Japanese maple seeds that we think we know, but there is always that complete unpredictability that makes this fun. If you collect Japanese maple seeds from a Japanese maple that has green leaves, chances are your seedlings will have green leaves. Maybe not all of them, but of them are likely to have green leaves.
If you collect Japanese maple seeds from a tree with really deep red color, chances are, many of the seedlings that you grow will have good red color and are likely to hold that color pretty well throughout the growing season. There are a number of Japanese maples that are notorious for deep red color. They are named varieties. Bloodgood is one of the most popular, another is Oshi Beni and another is Emporer I.
All awesome plants. Seeds from those trees are likely to produce seedlings with nice red color. But you can’t call them Bloodgood, Oshi Beni or Emporer I. They are nothing more than red seedlings with the botanical name of Acer palmatum atropurpureum.
Acer is the botanical name for a maple tree, palmatum means Japanese maple and atropurpureum means red leaves. A Japanese maple seedling with green leave would be Acer palmatum.
Japanese maple seeds are produced in the spring and the summer and they need to hang on the tree into the fall so they have a chance to mature. If you harvest seeds before they are ready, they are not going to grow because the embryo will not be fully developed.
The best time to collect Japanese maples seeds is October here in northern, Ohio zone 5 and I would say that most zones where Japanese maples grow would be the same. As the seeds ripen they begin to turn brown and fall from the tree. You should start collecting them before they fall from the tree, but collecting them off the ground is not a problem, the seeds will still be very viable.
People often ask, how do I know whether or not a tree is a Japanese maple or not. And I’m not sure how to answer that, at least in print, but I assure you, once to start looking around you’ll be able to pick out a Japanese maple from a hundred feet away. Basically, this is what a Japanese maple leaf looks like. Or course there all different kinds of Japanese maples, but this is the most common.
Step 2. Check the seeds for viability.
After you collect the seeds you can spread them out on a table and randomly pick a few seeds from the batch. Place those seeds one at a time on a cutting board and cut through the seed with a sharp knife. As you do this notice what the consistency of the seed is like. The seed should firm, or hard. Not soft and mushy.
Inspect the inside of the seed. The inside of the seed should green or cream in color. The tissue should look firm and healthy with good color. If the seeds are hollow inside or the embryo is brown or brown and mushy, that seed is no good. It’s a good idea to know that your seeds are viable so you don’t waste your time trying to grow them.
If you suspect that you have bad seed, see if you can collect more from a different tree. There are likely all kinds of Japanese maple trees in your town that you may have never noticed. Banks, doctors office, city hall, parks, cemetery’s, etc. And in peoples yards. Always ask permission, most people are happy to let you pick a few seeds.
Buying Japanese maple seeds.
You can buy Japanese maple seeds, but it’s always best to buy from a known and trusted source. I hate to say it, but some who sell seeds are only interested in getting your money and are not concerned about whether they sell you good seed or not.
I often see ads for a seed that make claims that quite simply, are just not true! And that’s the Beauty of Our Members Area. We have members who sell Japanese maple seeds in the Buy/Sell Area and they are very good about offering quality seed for sale at wholesale prices.
They also sell Japanese maple seedlings and rare and unusual varieties of Japanese maples as well. It’s really quite an amazing place. I have purchased thousands and thousands of dollars worth of rare Japanese maple from my own customers in the Buy/Sell Area of the Backyard Growers Business Center.
Of course, everything is seasonal. Japanese maple seeds are usually available in the fall, usually mid-October until they are sold out. Japanese maple seedlings and rare Japanese maples are often advertised in the late winter, but just recently I watch a member sell a ton of rare Japanese maple varieties in September. So you never know for sure, but there are always interesting plants for sale in the Buy/Sell Area and always at wholesale prices.
Step 3. Soaking Japanese maple seeds in hot water.
First let’s talk about sowing Japanese maple seeds outside, in the fall. Japanese maple seeds have a very hard outer coating and the seeds cannot, will not germinate until that outer coating is softened up.
In nature, this is a very slow process and can take up to two years before the outer coating is softened up enough for the seeds to germinate. And of course, that means that germination could occur at any time during the growing season which is really not good. It’s best to have those seedlings germinate in the spring so that by the time summer and fall roll around they are strong enough to withstand the harsh summer heat and sun, and then the freezing weather in the fall and winter.
In other words, we can control when the seeds germinate by soaking them and softening the outer coating of the seed to get the germination process started.
This step is easy. Simply run hot water from the tap and fill a cup. Not quite boiling water, but hot water. Fill a cup with water, drop in your seeds and as the water cools down simply let them soak.
Remove, break off the wing before you soak the seeds.
The only part of the seed that you need is the part that is opposite the wing. Simply snap off the wing and keep the little round ball part. The actual seed is inside of that little round ball.
When you first place the seeds in the water they will float. As they soak the seeds will get heavier and drop to the bottom of the cup. Seeds that never sink are probably not viable and can be disposed of.
Keep in mind that propagating any kind of a plant is really a numbers game. The more you do, the better your chances of success. I took this photo just so I could do this article. If I were serious about growing these seeds for myself I would collect and sow hundreds if not thousands of seeds.
Let them soak for 24 hours. If you want to repeat this process and soak them for another 24 hours I’m sure that would be fine and it will to help soften the outer coating of the seeds. Just pour off the water and add more hot water and soak for an additional 24 hours.
Step 4. Sowing the Japanese maple seeds outside in the cold!
This too is a very simple process. You can sow them in Flat or a Tray or you can do as I often do and put them in a large, black plastic nursery container.
I like using the black nursery containers because the sun heats up the container and actually keeps the soil from getting too wet and soggy and of course plants love to be warm. When they are warm and happy they grow and they make roots. Warm soil is like magic.
Notice that I only put about 4 inches of Potting Soil in the container. That allows the sun to hit the inside of the plastic container as well as the outside of the container keeping the seeds nice and warm.
Just place this container outside, in an area out of the wind, but in a place where the sun can shine on the container. Don’t worry about the snow, the cold, the freezing temperatures. Japanese maple seeds actually need a cold treatment before they will germinate so typical winter weather is just part of the process. As long as the seeds are not in soggy soil they’ll be fine. The outer coating will soften and when spring arrives the seeds should germinate.
I say “should germinate” because there are a lot of variables that can affect this process. Most importantly, if the seeds need to be in a type of soil for Potting Soil that Drains Well and doesn’t hold too much water. As long as the seeds don’t rot they will germinate eventually as long as they are viable seeds.
Step 5. Once the seeds start to germinate in the spring, move the container to a shady location to protect the young seedlings from the intense sun. Just keep them watered.
As they germinate you can pick them out of the container and plant them in flat, or tray that has cell packs or a jiffy pot and just let them grow and put on some size. You can fertilize them with liquid, foliar fertilizer spray.
Or you can simply leave them in the nursery container until the following fall. At that time simply remove them from the container and gently shake the soil loose and you will be able to pull the seedlings apart. Once separated just plant them in a bed or in your garden until they get larger. Or you can put them in pots and grow them that way.
Option #2 is Cold Stratification in a Refrigerator.
With this option, timing is extremely important. Please pay close attention to the timing and mark your calendar. A lot of people get this wrong and they end up doing the right thing at the wrong time of year and their results are terrible, usually a complete failure.
The steps for the refrigerator method are as follows.
Step 1. Collect the Japanese maple seeds in the fall just as described above. If you want to do the cut test as describe above you can do that now before you store the seeds.
Step 2. Do not soak them at this time. Instead, simply put them in a paper bag and store the bag in a cool dry place.
Step 3. Count backward 90 days from your last date of frost in the spring. Here in Ohio, we are not usually out of danger of frost until May 15th so that’s the date that I would start counting backward from. 90 days from May 15th would be February 15th. That’s the day that I would start stratifying my seeds.
Step 4. On your “start stratifying day” take the seeds out of the paper bag and soak them in hot water as described above for 24 to 48 hours.
Step 5. After soaking put them in a freezer bag along with some light, fluffy potting soil. A soil that can hold some moisture but not stay soggy. Shake up the bag thoroughly mixing the seeds with the soil. Once thoroughly mixed together poke a few small holes in the top of the bag so it can breathe a little. Or simply zip the bag almost shut, leaving one corner open a little.
Step 6. Place the bag of seeds and soil in your refrigerator. Do not push the bag all the way to the back of the fridge, things back there tend to freeze if left alone for very long. You want the seeds to be cold, but not freezing. If they freeze it won’t harm them, but the stratification stops or slows down considerably if the seeds and the soil freeze.
Step 7. Mark your calendar. Count ahead 90 days on the calendar and make a note to yourself to get the seeds out of the fridge on that day. Check the bag carefully. If you see seeds that have started to sprout simply pick out the germinated seeds with a pair of tweezers and carefully plant the germinated seed in a flat of well-drained potting soil, or seed starting soil. Put just a light layer of soil over the seed as you plant them. The first thing to grow out of the seed will be a root so put the seeds in the soil root down.
Step 7. After picking out all of the germinated seeds leave the bag of remain seeds on the counter at room temperature. Once the seeds and the soil warm up the rest of the seeds should start germinating quickly. It might be a matter of two or three weeks before all of the seeds germinate. Possibly longer. Just pick them out as they germinate and transplant them into the flat.
Be careful with fertilizers. Not enough is far better than too much. Miracle Grow mixed at 50% of the normal rate is really all you want to use.
Grow the seedlings out as described above.
Keep in mind, both green-leafed and red-leafed Japanese maple seedlings have value. You can always find somebody willing to buy a 12″ to 18″ Japanese maple seedling with red leaves. Those things sell like hotcakes! But even those with green leaves sell well, Especially in Our Members Area, because growers want them to use as a rootstock for grafting other interesting varieties too. Typically the ideal size for grafting is a diameter of 3/16″ to 1/4″.
This is my tutorial on grafting, but first I have to be 100% honest with you. I’m terrible, completely negligent about replying to comments on our Japanese maple site. Why is that? I’m only one person and a busy one at that. I spend a great deal of timing answering questions and help people in Our Members Area, and I do my best to reply to comments here on https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/. But I just can’t find the time to check all of our sites and I apologize for that. Here’s the Grafting Tutorial; Take a Peek.
Why bother to graft at all? Because the most awesome Japanese Maples in the world have to be grafted. Here are just a few to give you an idea of why I say that; Awesome and Beautiful Japanese Maple Varieties.
Questions or comments? Post them below and I’ll answer your questions.
We have a number of resources that might interest you, Take a Peek here.
I have a few japanese maples that are 3-5 or so years old but they don’t seem to make seeds. Are they just too young? Or is there something wrong?
Alex,
Probably way too young. see if you can find a mature tree around town with some seeds.
When you are selling the Japanese Maples. How do you determine what kind they are? Or can you sell them as mic. Japanese Maples?
Cheri,
I don’t sell any plants online. This article explains Japanese maples from seed in detail. https://japanesemaplelovers.com/growing-japanese-maples-from-seed/
I have some Japanese Maple seeds that a friend just gave me. She got them off her mature tree. Being that it is only May, is there any chance I can germinate these seeds. I am in Memphis TN.
thank you
Marty,
Your timing is way off. You really need to start these in February. And the seeds need to be collected in the fall, once they have matured on the tree.
Hi Mike,
I have a red Japanese Maple that dropped seeds in the fall and now I have hundreds of little trees coming thru my grass. I started to pull them out roots in tacked and put them in 3-inch cups with good potting soil. I am keeping them outside to maintain the same conditions they have had. I have kept them in the same location as the mother tree. I live in Southern Ontario so snow in November is a done deal. My question is am I wasting my time hoping for these to grow?
Michelle,
No, you are not wasting your time. As long as you can pull them up without damaging roots they should be fine. Ideally pull them up when dormant in November. I think they’d be happier if you planted them in a bed about 6 to 8 inches apart. Mulch them to keep the weeds down. Keeping them in cups is tricky and they can fail quickly.
When is the best time to replant Japanese maple trees, November or February or March?
When is the best time to graft Japanese maple trees, January or immediately before the buds come out?
Toshimi,
When you say replant, that does mean dig up, severing some roots? That would be when the trees are completely dormant. Usually between Thanksgiving and mid March depending on your climate. Grafting needs to be done in a warm environment. Greenhouse or heated room. You can do them any time while dormant but you are going to start waking them up about 14 days before you graft so they will leaf out and need plenty of light on those leaves. Maybe toward the end of winter will shorten the time that you have to keep them inside.
I am trying to grow a dwarf red maple that was a volunteer in my garden. It is tiny now (just one stem and a few leaves). A few weeks ago I put into a pot so I could eventually give it to my daughter. It was doing fine until we had extreme heat and then bad storms and wind. Unfortunately it was not in a protected enough space and now all of its few leaves look pretty withered. Do you think it is the end of this little seeding? Or is there a chance it will bounce back? Thank you!
Suzanne,
It might come back, just make sure it’s in the shade.
I got what based on your pictures is an about 2 years old red Japanese maple seedling. It is about 3 feet tall but the trunk is very thin and fresh (all red at the moment). I have planted it in the front yard with great care. I want advice regarding two things: how do I prevent it from snapping due to weather elements? (I am concerned about tying it up as I may damage the thin stem or trunk).
The second is that we live in the Boston area. The tree would have been in the ground for about 5 months when we may see the first freeze and/or snow. should I use a a burp around to protect it? Do you recommend any other thing?
I did enjoy your video regarding pruning and taking care of Japanese Maples.
Thanks so much!
Blanca,
Over the summer make sure it has some shade, sun is brutal on young Japanese maples. Staking it is an option and I’d only do so if it’s not growing straight.
Hi Mike, love all your helpful info. I recently purchased a green house and was some j maple seeds. I was wondering if I get them germinated and growing through the summer would it best to keep them in the greenhouse through winter or let them stay out in the cold and go dormant? I’m in Midlands SC and our winters aren’t very harsh but we do get some freezing weather. Any advice is much appreciated! Thank you!
Clint,
Once germinated they need to go dormant naturally for the winter. Probably planted in a bed would be best.
Mike, I have a Japanese Lacy leaf maple and at this time of the year it gets white spots on the leaves. What causes this and how do I treat it? The tree is very healthy, especially in the spring when it is coming into bloom, and there are no white spots on leaves. And can this tree be reproduced by the seedling method? Thanks for your time
Bernadette,
The spots on the leafs late in the summer are probably from water hitting the leafs when the sun is intense. Don’t worry about. Every little spot on a plant does not need to be treated. No, the weeping maple will not come true from seed. You can grow the seeds, but they won’t be identical to the parent plant.
I have approximately 160 Japanease maples in one to three gallion pots that I have grown from seed, been a several year process, have five mature maple trees on my property one dark green, one red with white edge leaf trim, and three dark red.
Guess I lucky over 75% of my plants are shades of red, some are 3″ high; also have 100 seedlings 1″ to 3″ tall ready to transplant based on size and growth.
Why so may plants, I sell a few and give most of them away.
Art Schlueter Mike I enjoy your news letter
Nice job Art, thanks for sharing!
Hi Mike, I have a huge maple tree across the street and was wondering if those seedlings are in demand or worth growing? It’s the bigger leaf type. Thank you for all your excellent information!
Mary,
I would say not. You could sell a few but you’d have to know exactly what kind of a maple it is.
Do you think that I would succeed in planting the seeds in Canada zone 4?
Lucille,
Difficult to say, most Japanese maples are rated to zone 5.
Hello Mike,
I’ve grown 12 Japanese trees from seeds, and now they are between foot, and foot and a half high. I’d like to grow them for bonsais, so I need to ask: How high should I let them grow before I chop the top off?
Thanks in advance.
JJ
JJ,
You don’t have to cut the tops off, I’ve tried it both ways. But if you want them small for Bonsi then I’d cut them now.
I recently purchased 15 already stratified trident japanese maple seeds. I put them in their own little pots (before I read this) using a perlite and peat mix, placed them on top of that, and covered them with an inch or two of organic potting soil. Since they are already stratified, how should i treat them during winter? I am in central Texas. It freezes about twice a year.
Any help is much appreciated!
Jakob,
Your timing is way off, it’s best to sow the seeds in Feb. I’d just leave them outside and hopefully the cold weather will keep them from germinating until spring.
I have 10 Japanese maple trees in my yard. This year I had over 400 baby Japanese Maples come up on the ground. They were an inch tall. ( I think around just 2 trees) on the ground and we dug them up and potted them and so far 50 has died. We have all these seeds on the trees that are all falling off. I don’t understand why they are not on the tree and are falling off in the fall. So far my baby trees are about 2 inches tall. I hope I don’t kill anymore. I am so happy they have never done this before!
Stacy,
Digging the seedlings in the spring is tricky, you have to be careful to not damage any roots. Make sure the potting soil you are using is light and fluffy, not too wet. Put them in a shady spot until they get bigger. Seeds that fall in the spring are not viable but it happens.
My Japenese Maple Tree Seeds are already sprouting in my refrigerator but it is still winter here in Michigan. It is only March. Should I plant them in a tub or pots and do I keep a grow light on them? Please help?
Diane,
Simply plant them in flat, under a grow light until the danger of freezing has past before you move them outside.
Mike,
I love your knowledge of gardening, so jealous.
I have, what was a beautiful Japanese Maple, that
is about 15 years old. I got damaged by a bad snow storm
about 2 years ago. we were away from home and the ice
just froze on it due to such freezing temps.
It seemed to hit one area, in particular, that looks like the
bark is split and breaking off. About 2/3 of it looks like it is
coming back. I remember reading about GRAFTING years ago.
Is there anything I could do to rejuvenate the area that is dying?
I keep trimming in hope that something good happens. I just
hate to uproot it.
Help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Jean
Jean,
I just don’t think that grafting is the answer for you on this tree, but I would keep pruning away dead, removing loose bark etc. and the tree might surprise you.
Hi Mike : I thought once you pay its a lifetime membership .Well I’ve long since changed my email address and carrier , does that make a difference ?
Tommy,
We have to be able to find you in our system with your old email, a user name, a receipt. Something that we can use to find your old order and or membership status.
hi mike
I was happy to find your site.. My daughter just bought a house and she wants
to grow a tree from our Japanese Maple for her new house. I read the how to grow segment. My question I have now is ….Im going to take the seeds this fall 2017 and
start the process into spring of 2018….after they germinate in the spring 2018 and I leave them in the
pot to grow larger how large in fall of 2018 do I allow them to get in order to plant one for a single tree in my daughters yard…..? and do I plant it that fall 2018 or the following spring 2019?
Thank you for your time,
Maryann Keller
Maryann,
It depends on how big the seedling grows. I would not plant in out in a garden until it’s about 18″ tall.
thank you
I am retired. I am attempting to propagate Arbequina olive trees from cuttings. I am planning to then plant the young olive trees to create a +- 800 tree olive orchard on my 5 acres. Have you any specific suggestions regarding the best way to propagate olive trees? Can I get multiple cuttings from a single branch? I have 6 three year old Arbequina trees in pots to take my cuttings from. Thanks for your help.
Lance,
I honestly don’t know but this time of year I for sure would be trying softwood cuttings. See this; https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/01/easy-summertime-plant-propagation-techniques-can-home/
Hi Mike, my dad started growing different Japanese maples from seedlings from trees that he had in his yard. One that he gave me started to grow like a vine. When he gave it to me last spring it was 6-8 inches tall. The vine is now around 6 feet. We didn’t know what to do with it. I was afraid to trim it. How do I trim it so that it starts growing like a tree and not a vine?
Megan,
It sounds like the Japanese maple that you have is a weeping variety. Just stake it upright and keep training it upright to a height of about 36″, then clip the top off and let it fill out.
Hi mike , I’m in Melbourne Australia my maple is full of seed. These have fallen to the ground and I would have over 50 that have sprouted about one inch. Am I able to pot these and grow them. Pretty new to this but my tree is still awash with seeds. Your advice would be appreciated
Mark,
You can dig and pot the seedlings from your Japanese maple. You either have to do that when they are dormant, or if you can get them out of the ground without doing a lot of root damage. Being that small that should be fairly easy. If you pot them be sure to use a potting soil that drains well. I’ll share this on potting soil.
Here are some tips on getting good potting soil;
Looking online for mulch is probably not the best place to look because many of the dealers who sell mulch really have little to no web presence at all. I’m sure there has to be some hardwood bark available in New Jersey.
I’d pick up the phone and start calling around. Garden Centers, landscapers and excavators will know who sells bulk hardwood bark mulch. These dealers are often hidden away on some side street.
I’d take a full day and visit as many garden centers and nurseries in your area that you can. Browse, ask some casual questions.
1. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk mulch.
2. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk potting soil.
3. What do most growers around here use as a potting mix.
Bulk potting soil is available, usually around $55 a yard, but worth it. But it’s not readily available in all areas and in most cases you need to send a truck to get it.
But it won’t cost anything to ask these questions. You’ll either get really good, answers, might get the brush off, or you might find somebody who loves to talk about growing plants and will bury you in valuable information.
Good info here about potting soil, https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/12/mike-mcgroartys-secret-bed-building-and-potting-soil-recipe/
and here;
https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/10/how-to-make-your-own-awesome-potting-soil/
I have pulled a few Japanese Red Maple Seedlings from yards that would other wise have been mowed over. What are their chances of survival?
This article has been oh so very helpful!!
Melissa,
If they are moved carefully and at the right time of the year they should do just fine. Best to move them when they are dormant, after Thanksgiving.
Mike,
I don’t think you mentioned this in the article, but why not do rooted cuttings?
Is growing from seed just another (free or almost free) option?
And if you did, wouldn’t they be exact replicas?
Thanks
Joe,
Japanese maples from seed will not be exact clones but cuttings would be. But they are very difficult to root so most desired varieties are grafted onto a seedling.
Oh, so you’re saying I just need to figure out the science on rooting J. maples and I’ll make a fortune! I’ll get right on it. LOL
Thanks!
Joe,
It would be a lot less frustrating to learn the science of grafting. Grafting is much more predictable and the trees do much better when they are not growing on their own roots. http://japanesemaplelovers.com/how-to-graft-japanese-maple-trees/
Are Bloodgood, Oshi Beni or Emporer I trademarked or patented?
Mike,
Not that I am aware of. That’s the beauty of Japanese maples, very few of them are patented.
This was very helpful. Thank you! After they sprout will the get their “true leaves” soon after or will you have to wait until next year to find out the color? I have a bloodgood that I’m going to try this with. Mostly just for fun to see what they come out looking like.
Cindy,
You really won’t know the true color of the leaves until the leaves see some full sun and when they are young they need to be shaded.
Know this doesn’t have anything to do with info above but I planted 129 Leyland cypress trees I’m worried about info from both sellers I got about them was totally different do u have any ideas on how to get them through the winter that’s a lot of money to kill Thanks for any advise . Now I’m going to my neighbors to get my get my Japanese maple seeds P.S. Don’t tell em
Cliff,
I’m mum on the Japanese maple seeds. As far as the Leylands, if they are hardy in your zone they should over winter in the ground just fine. They are an evergreen and well drained soil is more important than any thing. If the soil is well drained apply about 3″ of mulch now. If it’ snot well drained, make sure they are not planted too deep.
Thanks Mike They have a tan yellowing look that is what has me concerned they have slow release fert. in potting soil from nursery now and have been watered when needed
Cliff,
It’s the end of the season, everything is looking a little haggard Let them go dormant, rest for the winter and they should look great in the spring.
how do I winter over my potted shrubs I rooted this year. I live in Racine, wi. I have them sheltered near a woods on the south side of my yard, and watered in your $5.97 size pots should I protect them after freezing with leaves or ?????????? help me, thanks
A few leaves will help. They should be fine as is, make sure they don’t dry out. The leaves could invite rodents that might eat them. More here; https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2013/11/over-wintering-protecting-plants-for-the-winter/
Hi Mike, I managed to germinate some acers earlier this year, but hadn’t seen the idea of keeping them cold over the winter, and only starting stratifying in the spring, nor the idea of the hot water soak. I was obviously lucky, although I only germinated a small proportion of what I had stratified.
When these did germinate I struggled to keep them alive, and now have only four seedlings from an original eight. It seemed to help when a friend reminded me that they need ericaceous soil, but you have not mentioned this. Is it relevant?
Tony,
Not only do I think this does not matter, but I wouldn’t consider them an acid loving plant. Keep in mind, Mother Nature grows things in topsoil. Period. She doesn’t amend soil, it is what it is and plants do fine in it. Most importantly with seedlings is that they need a well drained soil. Watered regularly when small, but the soil must drain fast. Japanese maples can’t stand being in wet soil. Small seedlings need to be shaded or protected from intense sun. And they really can’t use nitrogen so at the very most fertilize with a diluted mix of Miracle Gro, but even that I’d hold off on for months.
HELLO,I PLANTED SOME SEEDS FROM MY ACER PALMATUM AND THEY ARE GROWING VERY NICELY—-
I DID THE STRATIFICATION OF THE SEEDS–
I TOOK SOME SMALL BRANCHES FROM THE ACER AND PLANTED THEM THEY ARE GROWING TOO—
WHAT WILL I DO WITH SO MANY ACERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
REMEMBER I LIVE IN SOUTH AMERICA,IN URUGUAY–WE ARE IN SPRING NOW-
THANKS MIKE—-I AM IN LOVE WITH MY SMALL ACERS-
Elena,
That’s awesome! I’m sure you’ll find places for them. I love hearing from people so far away. It’s just proves that plants are universal.
Mike –
You mention regularly that its important to only propagate plants that you have the original label for, so you know exactly what you’re propagating. But in this article you talk about collecting seeds from banks and doctor offices. Can you clarify why this would be acceptable in this case?
Thanks!
TJ,
This is a fair question and it can be confusing. Seeds are a form of sexual reproduction. Nobody owns the right to seeds, at least that’s true with trees, evergreens and flowering shrubs. So you know that when growing a plant from seed you are not violating anybody’s patent. As far as plant identification is fairly easy to look at a tree and say; “That’s a dogwood tree, cornus florida, that’s a chinese dogwood, cornus kousa, or Japanese maple tree, Acer palmatum. These are very generic plants, not named cultivars.
I could point to a really unique looking tree and say without a doubt, “That’s a laceleaf weeping Japanese red maple.” But what variety? There are many that look very similar, Crimson Queen, Super Red, Ever red, Inaba Shadaire and even Orangela looks very similar. There is no way that I could say with any certainty what variety I was looking at and I’ve been around them my entire life.
But a generic Japanese maple? Sure, anybody with a little bit of experience can do that. But a Bloodgood? I couldn’t do it. Bloodgood looks way too much like Oshi Beni and a number of other varieties.
So that’s the difference. With shrubs, even named varieties of trees, cultivars, you have to have the tag.
I hope that helps.
That makes total sense. Thanks.
So if I have a Japanese maple growing in my yard, I can propagate and sell it as Japanese maple, just not as anything more specific, is that what you are saying?
Elizabeth,
Yes, that is true. It’s either going to be a red or green Japanese maple but not a named variety if you grow it from seed. If you take cuttings from a Bloodgood Japanese maple those cuttings would be true clones of the parent plant and could be sold as bloodgood. However, rooting Japanese maples is not easy, most named varieties are grafted.
Maybe propagate was not what I meant, I’m thinking I could take the seeds and have some generic plants in a couple of years that someone would want to buy and use to graft a specialty tree with.
Elizabeth,
Most certainly you can grow them from seed. If you collect seeds from a tree with nice red color chances are your seedlings will also have good red color.
I live in Satlillo Coahuila, Mexico, and i would like to have seeds of Red Japannes Mapple Trees.
Could i buy it from you? could you send them to my address here in Mexico.
Regards
Abel Fuentes Garza
Abel,
I don’t sell seeds, and at this point I’m not shipping any plants. But we do have members that sell Japanese maple seeds and ship all over the place. Mexico? I’m not sure, it would depend on the seller.
My son has two Japanese maples (the jagged leaf ones). He gave me some cuttings and I am trying to root some in water and others with a root medium in soil. Will either of these work and if so how long will it take? Thanks for any help.
Arlene,
Chances are it will not work. Especially in water. But even in soil. There’s a chance to root Japanese maple cuttings when the wood is fairly soft, but this time of the year the wood is quite hard. See this on summer rooting. https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/01/easy-summertime-plant-propagation-techniques-can-home/
I planted about 7 scupadine vines along three 14 foot strans of wire between two 6 ft poles this week oct 15, 2015.. I got these vines from a friend that were growing wild in his backyard. He said the vines were covered with grapes this year.
I cut the vines about 2 feet from the ground and pulled the rest from the trees.
I cut the vines at the bottom at an angle and used root grow and potting soil to plant them in the ground about 10 inches or so.
Then i put mulch on top oh the planted vines.
I did all of this before reading about cutting the bottom part of the scupadine vine just below the nub. I did not do that.
I did prune the vines correctly though leaving at least 2 or 3 nubs to grow.
I took the leaves that were on the vines off also.
I was told to do that by a man who grows muscadines.
Now I am wondering if they will root and bare fruit next fall.
I live in the upstate of sc and it has not got down to freezing yet but has got down to 36 or so.
Do you think my plants have a good chance to survive and produce?
Bill in upstate SC
Bill,
That depends on exactly what you have below ground. Many grapes only have a node, bud union, about every 10″ or more. If you don’t have a node below ground I’m quite certain they won’t grow. It would be worth just pulling them out of the ground, cutting below and node and sticking back in the ground. If you do have at least one node below ground there is a chance that they’ll root at that node, but still it would be better if the bottom part of the stem was removed. Everything below the last node is going to die. It would best if it were not there and the wound of removing it would inspire the plant to make roots at that point.