Potting Soil has to be the most confusing thing ever!
Mike’s Dagwood Sandwich Potting Soil Ingredients System.
Really it is. You look around on the Internet and you find recipe after recipe after recipe for potting soil. And they vary a lot and for the most part they are very different.
The worst thing about all this variation?
Very few of these recipes even begin to resemble the potting soil recipes that professional growers use. I’m talking about potting soil that is used for growing plants in containers.
Especially containers this size or larger. If you are growing seeds or small plugs in a greenhouse then you’ll be using a mix that contains both peat and perlite, a lot of perlite. The peat holds moisture, the perlite allows the mix to drain. Neither of those components have even a trace of nutrition in them. Okay for a greenhouse setting where the plants are being fed through a means of liquid fertilizer and foliar feeding.
I should point out that in my nursery I don’t have a greenhouse, I don’t need a greenhouse and I most certainly don’t want a greenhouse. Greenhouses really making growing complicated. I like to keep things simple. All of my plants, all of my cuttings, spend the winter outside in the bitter cold Ohio weather. You need to know that. Plants are tougher than you think.
Over the years I’ve written a lot about the potting soil mix or mixes that I use and in that time my potting soil recipe or mixes have changed. But the one thing that has not changed is that I still am not using any peat in my potting mix and I am still using a great deal of bark mulch. I do not use any perlite in my potting soil mix because, I don’t need it and trying to add perlite which is lighter than a feather is truly an exercise in frustration when mixing potting soil outside as I do.
The Dagwood Sandwich Method of Making Potting Soil.
Back in the day when I started my very first backyard nursery I did not have any machines so I had to find ways to make and mix my own potting soil without any fancy equipment. I devised what I call the dagwood sandwich method.
Actually I had a pretty smooth setup because I had three compost bins at the back of my property and right in front of those I built my potting soil pile. I used a three bin composting method that involved never turning the compost piles. I’d fill one bin, then I’d fill the second bin, then I’d fill the third bin. When the third bin was completely full I’d use a rototiller to loosen the material in the bin and shovel the material out of the bin right on to my potting soil pile which was just a few feet away.
Even if everything in the bin was not completely broken down I’d still empty the bin. The compost could finish “cooking” in my potting soil pile. This is My Three Bin, No Turn Composting System. Of course when we sold the house and moved, that system stayed with the house.
My Potting Soil Ingredients Back Then.
My dagwood potting soil pile consisted of;
- I’d start by buying three to six cubic yards of shredded hardwood bark mulch and I’d have to wheelbarrow that from my truck to the my potting area. I’d dump the hardwood bark mulch into a low, flat pile.
- Then I’d buy three cubic yards of a commercially created compost. Commercial compost can vary a lot depending on where it’s made and sold. And yes, it’s not unusual to find all kinds of foreign objects in it like shredded plastic bags and stuff. Using a 2 by 12 board for a ramp I’d wheelbarrow the compost up on top of my pile of hardwood bark mulch.
- Then I’d I buy a couple of yards of pea gravel and do the same. Using the ramp, it too got wheelbarrowed up on top of my low flat pile. I kept the pile low and flat most of the year because I wanted everything in the pile to get good and wet from snow and rain so the hardwood bark mulch would break down.
The compost held a lot of micro-nutrients that would help break down the hardwood bark mulch.
The Million Dollar Secret to Keeping a Good, Fresh Supply of Usable Potting Soil!
Never let the pile run out. Ideally never use more than half of the pile.
Why?
Because you need that well rotted, broken down organic material to help the fresh hardwood bark that you are adding to the pile to break down faster. So as soon as I was done potting in the spring I’d add more layers to my dagwood sandwich potting soil pile.
Mike! How in World Can You Pot with this Dagwood Sandwich Pile of “Stuff”?
Sorry, I left that part out. I’ll explain that in a second. But first I have to mention that I am also the “Inventor of the Legless Potting Bench”. Yep! A potting bench with no legs! Keep in mind, back then I was “machineless”, that means I had no machines. So I made a potting bench with no legs so I could rest one end of my “legless potting bench” on my potting soil pile, then I’d prop up the other end with a saw horse or usually three concrete blocks.
Why did I do this?
Since I had no machines it was just me and a shovel to load that potting bench with soil so I wanted the bench as close to the soil pile as possible. And you can’t get any closer than having part of the bench resting on the pile. On this page you can see my “World Famous Legless Potting Bench” and how it was all set up.
Okay, so now I’ve got this all set up, but the potting soil pile is not potting soil at all, it’s layers of different material and there is no way in the world that I was going to hand mix that huge pile of “stuff”. So instead of mixing the entire pile I got out the only machine that I owned at the time which was a front tine rototiller. I used the tiller to mix just one corner of the pile. It worked perfectly! I’d mix just enough to fill the potting bench once or twice. Once that amount was used up I’d mix some more.
Years later I bought one of those little Mantis Tillers and that little tiny thing was awesome! It was so light it would literally climb right up the pile then mix the soil on the way down. It worked better than my 8 horse front tine tiller because using the bigger tiller was work. It was heavy and would literally get “stuck” in the pile and I’d have to pull it out. The Mantis was so light it couldn’t get stuck. In the video on this page, I’m using The Mantis Tiller to turn a compost pile. You can see how it climbs and mixes.
Years later, just for you, I made a movie about how to make “A Legless Potting Bench”.
My Potting Soil Recipe Keeps Changing.
That doesn’t mean that the old recipe is no good. Nothing could be further from the truth. But what happened is When I Started My New Nursery a Few Years Ago (I’m really proud of this page), I had more room, I bought a frontend loader and I could store or stock pile even more potting soil. This video is really good, it’s all about potting soil. Be sure to watch it.
Can I Use “Free Mulch” from the tree trimming crew?
No you can’t and in this potting soil video I show you the difference and explain why tree trimmer mulch is no good for potting soil.
Yep! After all these years still using the same potting bench design.
We actually use two of these benches. One for short potters and one for taller potters.
I had such a huge pile of potting soil once it started decomposing it really started to break down fast. Too fast really. I kept adding more fresh hardwood bark to the pile, but knowing that all of the growers around here grow in pine bark mulch I decided to give that a try.
We don’t have pine bark mulch here in Ohio, it has to be trucked in from North Carolina, not exactly a short trip. But it works so well the big growers buy tens of thousands of yards of it each year.
So what I did is I bought a semi trailer load of fresh pine bark mulch. They haul 100 cubic yards in those trucks. The trailers don’t dump, they are not dump trailers. Instead they have a walking floor that literally moves the mulch out of the truck like a conveyor, but it’s not a conveyor. Incredible invention! Dump trailers are dangerous because they go so high in the air and way too often tip over when trying to dump mulch because mulch doesn’t slide as easily as sand or stone.
By the time all of this took place I probably still had about 50 cubic yards of my decomposing hardwood bark mix left then I acquired 100 cubic yards of fresh pine bark mulch. I mixed them together with the tractor of course and all I can say is wow! My plants grew like crazy in this new mix.
Potting soil made with pine bark mulch.
You can see the pine bark pieces in this photo.
The pine bark mulch added plenty of aeration to the mix and that’s important. The roots of your plants have to be able to breath. The decomposed hardwood bark gave the mix the ability to hold just the right amount of moisture and added some nutrition to the mix as well. Of course plants grown in containers have to be fertilized with a “Slow Release Fertilizer”. You Can Not Use Garden Fertilizer on Container Grown Plants! It Will Kill them Overnight!
Like I said, over the years I’ve written a lot on the subject of potting soil ingredients and I urge you to study all that I’ve written because even though what I do has evolved, it’s all very, very relevant.
This is one of the first things that I wrote about potting soil.
This is an article about potting soil and bed building soil.
Soil used for beds, growing plants in the ground is different. It doesn’t have to be as precisely controlled and calculated like potting soil does.
Last year, because I had a huge pile of well decomposed potting soil to add to the pine bark that I was buying, I bought “fresh” pine bark. It worked great.
But this year I want to stock up on pine bark but I don’t really have anything to mix with it just yet, unless I just start adding it to the potting soil pile that I have, I am ordering 100 cubic yards of “aged pine bark” now, just to stay ahead of the game.
Yeah, I know. It all sounds so complicated. And I know that you can’t buy 50 yards of this or 100 yards of that. It’s not. Start with the basics like I did way back in the beginning and just mix up a pile of bark mulch and compost. If you don’t have hardwood bark in your area, look for pine bark. Even rice hulls. Some growers use rice hulls.
Just keep in mind, the plans get most of their nutrition from the slow release fertilizer, but the potting soil has to be able to drain well and breath. That’s why I added pine bark to the mix that I had. Once it really started decomposing, it lost it’s ability to breath and drain well.
But that was just a product of my having huge pile that I wasn’t using fast enough. But I never want to use my potting soil so fast that I run out. I always want to have a really aged base that I can add to and use to mix up a new batch.
Questions or comments? Post them below and I should see them.
Hey Mike,
Is the pump that comes with the misting system, 12 volt compatible? Looking to run the system off of solar.
Jason,
There is no pump with our system, https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/mikes-plant-propagation-kit/, you run it off of any water supply that can push 25 to30 psi. Maybe lower pressure, I really don’t know.
its potting soil the wood chips will provide long term nutrients the wood chips need to be ad least a few years old if not longer.
I have tons of very old horse manure, goat droppings/peanut hay, and partly composted peanut hay from my hay barn what do I need to add to this to make good potting soil and in what proportion?
Also I ordered your everything on the page deal on 6/22/18 and only so far the recipt for it.. No links to the BYG or anything else.
Thanks Debbie
Debbie,
All of that organic material you have will make awesome compost but compost only makes up about 20 to 30 percent of good potting mix. Duston will follow up with you on the products that you bought, I sent him your message.
Okay, let me see if I can make the important points.
My most recent video on potting soil, this one is about pine fines or pine bark mulch; https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2018/03/potting-soil-can-use-make-potting-soil/
Just in! This mix is actually pretty good, https://www.amleo.com/berger-bark-growing-mix-3-cu-ft/p/BM7/. If nothing else gives you an idea of what a good mix should be.
1. First of all, it is confusing because there are so many options that make for a good mix. A lot of it has to do with what is available to you in your area.
2. Pea gravel. I used to add pea gravel to my well rotted hardwood bark mulch but I’ve learned that adding pine bark is really a better option. In small quantities pine bark is often sold by the bag and called soil conditioner in the box stores.
3. Rotted hardwood bark mulch is still a good option, I used it for years with great success. It only failed me when I tried to really stock up (50 yards worth) then it rotted too much and didn’t drain well. That’s when I started mixing in large amounts of pine bark.
4. Growers actually use pine bark fresh because even as it ages it really doesn’t change a lot.
5. So right now my ideal mix is very heavy in pine bark and to that I add either commercial compost or well rotted hardwood bark mulch.
6. But what I really do is buy a load (90 yards) of pine bark then I start working that into the potting mix that we are current using. I think it’s important for me to stay ahead of the wave by adding more pine bark before I am out of soil. Right now I have a large pile of pine bark that’s been sitting here since ???? early summer I think. And there is a part of my potting soil pile that is far too aged and compacted so on my to do list is to blend these two piles together before spring.
7. Yes, I now have a front end loader that makes this easy. But at this place, https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2016/03/mikes-first-backyard-nursery/, I used a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a rototiller. I usually kept about 10 yards on hand and always replenished my pile before it ran out using the old to mix with the new.
8. But back then I never turned the entire pile. That would have been crazy. I’m too lazy to turn compost! Or as I like to think of it, I value my time more than that.
9. Instead when I added fresh material, bark mulch, commercial compost or pea gravel to my pile, I simply put it on top. I’d use a two by twelve as a ramp to get the wheelbarrow up on top of the pile. I built the pile like a “Dagwood Sandwich”, you might have to Google that. Layers of materials. Then when I needed soil I would simply rototill one corner and get an awesome mix that I’d shovel on to the bench by hand.
10. And that’s where the legless potting bench came in. I’d rest one end on the pile so it would be nice and close for shoveling, then the other end on blocks or a saw horse. https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/01/homemade-mobile-potting-bench-it-has-removable-wheels/
11. So yeah, today I do things very differently, but I started exactly where all of you are today.
No matter what you use, it doesn’t have to be my mix, just pick a potting soil that somebody else here is using with great success. Bagged soil? Sure if that’s what you want to do. I have no idea how much it costs to fill a one gallon with a bagged mix but I am curious about that if anybody wants to share than number with us.
Here are some tips on getting good potting soil;
Looking online for mulch is probably not the best place to look because many of the dealers who sell mulch really have little to no web presence at all. I’m sure there has to be some hardwood bark available in New Jersey.
I’d pick up the phone and start calling around. Garden Centers, landscapers and excavators will know who sells bulk hardwood bark mulch. These dealers are often hidden away on some side street.
I’d take a full day and visit as many garden centers and nurseries in your area that you can. Browse, ask some casual questions.
1. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk mulch.
2. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk potting soil.
3. What do most growers around here use as a potting mix.
Bulk potting soil is available, usually around $55 a yard, but worth it. But it’s not readily available in all areas and in most cases you need to send a truck to get it.
But it won’t cost anything to ask these questions. You’ll either get really good, answers, might get the brush off, or you might find somebody who loves to talk about growing plants and will bury you in valuable information.
Good info here about potting soil, https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/12/mike-mcgroartys-secret-bed-building-and-potting-soil-recipe/
and here;
https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/10/how-to-make-your-own-awesome-potting-soil/
Thanks Mike,
I already saw those posts, and My order did go through ..I’m here right?. He emailed that the rest of my order shipped yesterday.. Next step is to borrow the neighbors bob cat and move one of those big piles out of my way, Should have done it long ago but was not in need of the space last time I used it. That was clean out the hay barn day. You would be amazed at the piles I can build and the stuff I move in 1 day with the cat.
I have been looking for a bark source, but am waiting on some money owed me to come in before I get a pallet load. The thing I cannot find are your 5.97 pots and you are sold out.
I have read about 2/3 of the university posts and a page or 2 of forum posts.
Prior to membership I went though tons of your free info. I now know why I killed all my blueberry plants a few years ago..to deep.
We are back in the hi 90’s now a 15 degree temp drop helps a lot. I still believe I will need shade tarp mini hoop houses even for my liner stock plants. And I am going to take the lower leg sections off the 8′ greenhouse frame lower it to about 4.5″ I believe that will help hold the humidity for the propagation beds. I am mapping out what goes where so I can set it all up right the 1st time. I’m old but still stronger than men my size, can still lift and carry my own body weight 150 lbs.at 60.moveing 450 lbs. of hay to feed livestock every day does keep you in shape.
My problem with wood bark is I live in the desert we have no big trees unless they are put in folk’s yards. but East Tx 700 miles away has piney woods. Might find somebody in Houston for bark. We do have silica sand so that’s 1 down for the prop beds.
Do you still have your ” misting Systems ” for sale? I’d like to order one. Also, when I need to order misters to enlarge the system, Where will I find these and how much are they?
Frank,
https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/mikes-plant-propagation-kit/
and here:
http://backyardgrowers.com/spray-nozzles/
Hey Mike, nice article on the mulch. Back when I was working in Eastern Kentucky in the oilfield , we had some pine timber cut on our property. There was not a mill close to us that was buying pine pulpwood. The timber buyer was sending it to Chillicothe, Ohio. You might can check on it to get a closer supplier there. They took a lot of pine for sure.
Thanks Todd, I appreciate that.
I believe there is a Meade paper mill in Chillicothe,O. that uses soft wood.
Very interesting, living in California, I have lots of downed oaks; no more taking the bark to the burn pile. I’ve always thought pine bark/needles have too much acid to
be good for anything but tomatoes, good to know it’s usable. Thanks for ALL your garden insights.
Mike
have a question . if I am doing cuttings only ,but not potting them & selling them do i have to have a plant license until i am ready to sell the rooted cuttings or what? the license is around 125.00 -150.00 per year. money i do not have to waste right now.
thanks
Marshall
Marshall,
You don’t need a license until you are ready to sell. You can grow, but you cannot sell without the license. But it’s really important to get started on the right foot and do the math on that license fee. In our members area you can see who is selling what and how fast it sells. It’s pretty easy to recoup that license fee. But read this as well; Are the cuttings that you have to stick “Rant Compliant”.
Honestly, this is the most important thing I can teach new members.
http://freeplants.com/rant.htm
Hi Mike,
Thanks for all the good information. I’ve got to look around for bark. So far I’ve only found it in bags, that’s too expensive a way to get potting soil!! LOL We had to cut down our maple and oak trees so I’m really at a loss for things to put into my garden compost. Here in Connecticut this fall it has been very warm. My Rhodies are trying to bloom!! And it’s October 29 already we should have our coats on by now!! One Rhodie actually has a flower poking its head out. Other Rhodies have buds that are opening their outside coverings on the buds (sorry I don’t know what they’re called) Other plants are also sending out new leaves. It’s a crazy fall for sure. Cold temps are supposed to be coming soon but they’re predicting temps in the 70s for two days this coming week. My long-winded comment is now coming to its end.. Will the plants be OK?
Thanks
Gladys
Gladys,
The plants will be fine, off season blooming is not uncommon. Cold weather will put them back on track.
Mike,
For those of us without a composted, what do you recommend?
Margarita,
You can buy commercial compost bulk. Most that sell topsoil and much carry it.
Hi Mike. I certainly learn a great deal from your posts. Thank you. I have a Bay Leaf tree that I would like to take cuttings from. Because I live in Saskatchewan it stays inside from September to May.. When do I start the new cuttings? Also it has one long branch that I thought to make into several pieces. Is this possible? Thank you
Karen
The long branch probably isn’t the best option but you can try. Tip cuttings are usually easier to root. See this; https://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/01/easy-summertime-plant-propagation-techniques-can-home/
are pincones good for the compost pile? I have a blue spruce that drops huge amounts of cones.
Mary,
Not really but I guess they might add some aeration which would be good.
I always overwinter my bulbs that are in pots in the garage. Is this wrong? I am in St Louis
Thanks
Marilyn,
I guess it depends. Garages are dry and that’s not good. An attached garage might be too warm for them. If it’s been working for you then I wouldn’t change what I’m doing.
Great — Ihave composted for 36 years– Wow this old fart is so right on !!! Thanks
I am just getting started and am very excited. My question is this. I am just starting my potting soil pile which will take some time to break down. Can I start using it immediately or do I need to do something different until my pile ages? If so, then what should I use for potting my plants until my pile is ready? Thanks and God Bless.
Tracy,
It really depends on what you using in your pile. But to be safe you should be able to buy some well composted leaf compost locally by the yard. That should work, at least for a while. Be sure to take the business center trial on June 1st, lots and lots of advice offered there daily. http://backyardgrowers.com/join
location east Texas north of Houston.
I have started buying rooted cuttings and plug trays from commercial suppliers. At the moment only growing in pots. Have started a compost process but for right now starting up I am mixing perlite with commercial potting mix and suffering the high prices. Here we have very few really cold winter days. and often warm winter days. like T-shirts and shorts….. but instead we have really hot long summer weeks where the only breeze comes from the packs of vampire blood sucking mosquitoes. I use time release 10-10-10 but since reading your info I will switch over to 14-14-14 . I do have enough land to plant into raised beds but there are Japanese beatles and voles. to fight that planting pots avoids. Also many solutions are hard to use and very expensive when the size of the land gets bigger. Like trying to get rid of grasshoppers that cross property lines and come on the wind from everywhere. Any ideas? I am trying to make the land generate some money so It does not just give living quarters to squirrels. raccoons, deer, wild hogs, possums, herds of rabbits and a wide assortment of insects and help to pay the annual property taxes. My backyard is forty acres so I thought I would start small by using three acreas for a nursery…. and since there is only me to do the work… I thought that would be more than enough to keep me busy all the time … also I am much older than Mike and in good health.
I have lots of pine and oak trees mixed together on the property. along with Sweet Gum and Chinese Tallow. But any mulch would not be ready to use this year …. right? So am I stuck with haveing to buy commercial bags of mix and perlite for my pots the next 12 months?
I have to look into buying bulk top soil from an outlet about thirty miles away. After they charge to bring it over I wonder if it would be that cost effective . But I do have a question … they dump in on the land in a big pile… I can only use just so much over time… what does most people do to prevent the wind and rain washing the pile away? I never see any tarp covering these piles.
My plan is for the sale of one gal. to three gal plants . Would liike to avoid anything bigger. Also I am way out in the country without much connection to a meaningful supply of retail customers so I would think having even a late spring and again autumn sale would not be practical.
When you first start up there is no mature plants to sell so no revenue comming in… which makes paying anyone to helpout an out of pocket expense. You see I am very penning pinching since I have been poor before and do not wish to ever be poor again. Self reliant and getting the job done right. But I know as the number of plants grow I can only rely on high tech to do only so much of the work.
I do have a question about security. When your growing area is in the back yard of a residential area the risk of plants disappearing is low but with acres and acres how do you protect against thief ? Even a fince is easily breached. And this only has to happen once to wipe out years of work and money spent. So far I use the first 100 feet next to the road as wild rustic forest with brush and obnoxious thorny vines that block the view of what is behine them. So far so good … but probably not very effective in keeping out a determined thief. Suggestions..?
Did I as too many questions? Thought I would do it all at once. Thanks for any replys and comments.
Bernie,
These kinds of questions are best asked in our members area http://backyardgrowers.com/join when it is open again. I can only address so much here and time is a huge factor for me. Security? It’s problem for everybody and beyond fences and gates maybe video cameras.
Mike I live in the southern california desert can I use this clay dirt that’s in the desert or should I buy some potting soil to make this recipe of yours with the pine bark, I do have a pine tree in my yard and can use some of that pine bark to the mix but will buy some as well, although I have wonderful luck in growing plants in this desert dirt but I guess I could get better with your mix, would love to hear your opinion on this
Darrel,
Plants grown in containers are never grown in a mix that contains natural soil. All growers grow in what is considered a soil less mix because plants in containers need to breath and they need that enhanced drainage.
Can a person use coconut coir in the potting mix instead of one of the other ingredients? I started seeing bales of it at the grange and it is supposed to be more sustainable than peat moss. Just curious what you think of that product?
Marta,
I’d say that Coconut Coir is a viable alternative, but not being that familiar with it, I’m not sure which ingredient it would replace.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I learn SO much from you, and I am an old gardener that has been gardening for many decades!
You are so good and generous to share. And I love your down-to-earth writing style. Thank you!!!!
Thanks Diane, I appreciate that.
Mike,
Where can I purchase pine bark out of N Carolina? I could use 500 yards
Mark,
This question would have to be answered in the members area. http://backyardgrowers.com/join I share a million things here, but wholesale sources I only share with members. Thanks for understanding.
Hi Mike,
This year is the first year I bought a compost bin, This is what I do I by loom and I mix it with all my salads egg shells everything now I use hummus manure, or black cow manure. I am going to use raised beds this year and I am from Rhode Island, I have already put that mixture into the raised beds plus I am always adding to the compost can I put the bark mulch in that mixture also to richen the soil. I am very excited I found your site. I am going to be ready to sell this year now, If you have time please visit my site and let me know what you think.
Thanks so much for making this site
Karen
Karen,
You can add bark mulch to your compost, but I think I’d let the bark mulch compost a bit before adding it to your mix. Fresh, it could slow your mix down. It’s better to have a nice big stock pile of bark mulch decomposing on its on.
Thanks Mike, so am I on the right track with my compost?
I think you are, just keep doing what you are doing.
mike, can i add used coffee grind to the mix? i m not certain whats the benefit, wholefood gives them away for free. The girl said to mix them in my soil. .
Nina,
I’m sure you can but I don’t honestly know what value they add. I know adding coffee grounds to soil and compost is popular, I’m just not sure if it’s that much of a benefit.
I was able to get a large load of horse manure from my neighbors down the road. WISH I HAD NOT !
got a bumper crop of ragweed and Spanish needle weeds. BE CAREFUL , of freebies.
I’ve been burning most of the bark from the downed ash & oak on my property, as I have most of the good lumber milled..
I’m off to get a spreader full of horse manure to try this new recipe! Most of the manure is 2 years or older and has already started to compost.
I’ve got a bushhog on an old “H.” Maybe that will do the bark and mix it up with the compost?
Cliff,
It’s worth a try, if you can mix them the bark will break down eventually.
Mike are you using only bark as the ingredient or adding other items such as dirt for your composting?
What would be the potting mixture in % of fresh bark mulch, decomposed mushroom compost, top soil, etc. if I do not mind buying in 2 or 3 cubic foot bags or 40 to 60 pound bags of decomposed mushroom compost or top soil.
For transplanting potted plants into land what would your recommend? Background – I have about 50 plants in pots that I want to plant on my property and do not really want to compost. There is a lot of rock in the soil and I need to replace with some kind of soil that I do not mind buying and mixing if you can suggest a recipe. I know mixing with the soil I do get from the planting hole is good but after removing the rocks there is never enough to backfill the hole.
How should I fertilize the newly transplanted potted plants? Do I still need slow release fertilizer? Would placing the fertilizer on top after planting or would mixing into the soil to backfill be better?
Keith,
With a potting mix you never want to use any kind of topsoil. It’s too heavy and doesn’t drain well enough. A potting soil might be 70% bark mulch and 30% mushroom compost. But I really think 80% bark and 20% compost would be better.
For planting in the ground back filling with topsoil should be fine. Fertilizer? I rarely fertilize plants in the ground. Even the plants in my landscape never get fertilized, they just don’t need it.
there is more than one correct potting soil evergreen brand of soil conditioner is good it is pine bark that is small what do you use for cactus and other succulents
Catus and Succulents are often grown in a mix that contains a lot of sand, but I’d still prefer something lighter and fluffier. A soil that breaths but also drains well. Sand really is not a good thing in potting soil. I plugs up the pores in the soil and stops or inhibits drainage and oxygen flow.
I have been following your e-mails for years and you are one of my heroes in the human realm. I will follow your example when I have a regular employment schedule and have time to work and plan my activity. I tried to watch your SECRET POTTING SOIL RECIPE and it would not load and asked for my e-mail address, which I entered but it stopped loading at 50%. let me know if you can help with this situation, please.
JR,
All I can say is try and watch it again. It’s a youtube video and should play well on any computer.
Mike, have you tried this. I did and it’s amazing stuff. I actually used coffee cans instead of a stove. The internet has a great deal to say about this product that can be made of clippings and scrub brush, weeds, scraps for compost etc.
A friend in Washington State told me about it when I was visiting him there. It has the sustainability for a thousand years or more. It’s easy and almost cost free. Some large farmers in WA. state are using it and have found that the yield on a crop of wheat is bigger, stronger with more nutrients and double’s the crop. All they need to do is turn the soil once when initially applying the biochar and never have to mix more into the soil, nothing other than that first application, Ck it out in case you haven’t. Its sold commercially now but I don’t trust the manufacturers as they want repeat business and this doesn’t require repeating. It might be another way for you to help others as well as yourself to a better almost no cost potting soil. Here is just one article: Sincerely from one of your greatest admirers, Sandy Vander Pol
Biochar is charcoal created from pyrolyzed biomass, and differs from charcoal only in the sense that its primary use is not for fuel but rather as a soil amendment.
Reason for Database
Biochar research, although still in its infancy, has generated much interest as a soil amendment due to its potential for increased soil fertility, water holding capacity, greenhouse gas reduction and carbon sequestration. The relatively low entry barrier to biochar manufacturing has resulted in many suppliers producing boutique biochars which make use of a variety of feedstock materials. Even with the current public interest in this material, our understanding of how biochar properties impacts the potential benefits is largely inadequate. This deficit in basic biochar science makes it difficult for biochar end users to make informed decisions regarding the specific biochar properties to consider when selecting a particular biochar for their use. The idea for this database arose from this research conducted in the Parikh Environmental Soil Chemistry Laboratory at University of California, Davis which aimed to determine trends in biochar physical and chemical properties based on feedstock source. The UC Davis Biochar Database was launched as an open-access resource to facilitate bridging this gap.
This database is open to all manufacturers (commercial and non commercial) to input data specific to their biochar or from peer reviewed publications dealing with biochar characterization. Information about the individual entries follows the categories of the International Biochar Initiative -The Standardized Product Definition and Product Testing Guidelines for Biochar That Is Used in Soil.
Sandy,
I am familiar with Biochar and spent a great deal of time looking into it. But in the end there was just no feasible way to work it into a growing operation and you know the old adage. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Our goal as growers is to produce a small plant and turn that plant into a salable plant in a season, two or three depending on the plant. What we are doing now does that quiet effectively and I’m all for keeping things as simple as possible.
I’m sure it has it’s benefits, but as a grower and I’m not the only grower that has looked into this product, it just fit with what we do.
Hey there Mike,
I just have to say before i have to head back outside again, but this is one of the best Newsletters, and great Videos, especially, well understood again, how to put together your own potting soil that won’t fail on you.. Last week or two weeks was a really good one too,!! I can’t remember exactly, but i sure liked it i know, i will have to look back at it. But, THANK YOU for putting out such good Videos Mike!! So Helpful and Appreciated..!
Thanks Kathy, it’s always nice to get positive feedback on what I do.
Hi Mike,
I do not want to buy or use slow release fertilizer. Are there any other options I can use, perhaps fish emulsion?
Rick,
You can use fish emulsion but it does not have enough nutrients to sustain a container grown plant. There’s a reason why people in the industry do what they do. They tried everything else and for me, it’s crazy for me to try and reinvent the wheel. The folks that I study know better than anybody how to grow plants. I simply share what I’ve learned from them after 40 years in this industry.
I’m going to have to slightly disagree with you. If you are feeding your fish right there are plenty of nutrients for container plants. The problem that you would run into is how many fish you would need. For example a 5 gallon (slightly overstocked) with tetras would provide nutrients for 5-15 plants depending on their requirements. In larger operations you are looking at 100gallon tanks and probably a cold water fish like trout. And then consider the cost of maintaining such a system. If you already have fish use the dirty water to water you plants but don’t go out of your way to get fish emulsion (and don’t pay for fish poo).
Plenty of nutrients for how long. I use a slow release fertilizer that gets applied once a year and feeds my plants for the entire season. Fish emulsion will last a a week or two at best.
mike …. you are the BEST
Thanks Patrick! I appreciate that.
I have 13 Loblolly Pine trees in my backyard. I am currently saving pine cones to try to market? I burn pine needles 4xs a season. Can pine needles be used instead of pine mulch. I understand they break down slow. I am trying to brainstorm what I can use pine needles for. Don’t have machines either. Any suggestions?
Jan,
Pine needles can be used as a mulch for mulching beds, but not to use in potting soil. They can be added to a compost bin or pile and eventually be used in a potting mix, but not in place of either hardwood bark mulch or pine bark mulch.
Jan – (and Mike) – Ceramic artists or Potters if you will, can use pine needles for a process called “Raku”. It is a Japanese method of finishing ceramic pieces and pots that can leave a very metallic finish. You’ve never heard of it? Not really too well known outside the craft, but pine needles give one of the best finishes I’ve ever experienced when I have done Raku. Of course there isn’t really much of an obvious market for this stuff, but it could be an entrepreneurial opportunity.
Pay attention to what Mike has to say about running his business and you can pick up some ideas that will translate to pine needles.
You can stuff a lot of needles into a 40 pound size softener salt bag.
And pine cones make a superb fire starter. If you’re marketing nice ones for craft and decorative materials, the crummy ones could be used as a fire starter material or base.
Thanks Fred, and I should also mention that if pay attention to what Fred just posted and other uses for pine needles, you can probably bag the up and sell them to those who be able to use them for lots of different uses.