Our members often refer to this as “Stick Farming” because that’s pretty much what it is. We turn what appear to be worthless sticks in to beautiful, viable plants. Follow along.
Basically what we are talking about are hardwood cuttings. We do hardwood cuttings during the winter. Never earlier than Thanksgiving and as late as April 1st. Today is March 31st and we just finished our hardwood cuttings yesterday.
Let’s start with a short movie. In the movie I show you the various plants that I have planted around the nursery specifically for the purpose of collecting hardwood cuttings from them.
Then I’ll show you how we do them. In the movie I show you some Wooden Flats that I Made, here’s that Link.
How about this? Getting Paid for Selling Sticks! Yep! We have members that bring in lots and lots of Money Selling Sticks. Check it Out.
We use packing paper in the bottom of the wooden flats. All I really need it to do is hold the Potting Soil from escaping out the bottom when we first fill them. By the time the paper is rotted the flats are in place and soon enough the roots will have the soil bound together.
In this case, this cutting, only has one set of nodes, or leave buds, on it. We stick it in the soil with that single node just about the soil line. Annabelle will form roots along that bare stem. Annabelle Hydrangea roots really well from hardwood cuttings.
Seems crazy doesn’t it? A pile of sticks, a small bowl of Dip n Grow rooting compound, and soon to be hundreds of new plants.
One of the plants that I showed you in the movie was Purple Sandcherry, see how pretty they are here. And why they sell so well. Also on that page you’ll find a detailed description of how to root them and all kinds of other plants from Hardwood Cuttings.
To fully understand how easy it is to root your cuttings, almost year round, check out these two pages;
Easy Summertime Plant Propagation
Easy Wintertime Plant Propagation
More on Hardwood Cuttings here.
Hello Mike! At what point do i take the white plastic off of my winterized potted plants? I live in Indiana in zone 5. Thanks!
Alva,
That’s like the million dollar question, we just discussed it in the members area, http://backyardgrowers.com/join, but you don’t want them to heat up and break dormancy early. Some cut large holes in the sides to let the air blow through so it stays cool but keep the frost off. That’s probably what I’d recommend for now.
Ok thanks!
Are all the plants in the growers area free to propagate and sell?
Alva,
I’d say that most are, but not all. We have some members who broker plants in the members area and some of them might be patented, but they should be advertised as such. But I’d say that 95% or more are in the public domain. http://backyardgrowers.com/join
Thanks again Mike! I am already a member and it has been good!
Hey Mike I bought some rooted cuttings from your members area and am wondering what the best thing is to do with them. Put them in a grow bed until they’re ready to pot? If so how do you recommend making a grow bed?
Thanks!
Alva,
Many things grow too fast for a grow bed and should be potted right away.
One more question. Does the tree bark you use in your potting soil recipe have a black die in it or is it just naturally dark? If so will the die hurt the plants?
Thanks again!
Alva,
Dyed mulch is mostly wood and should not be used in a potting mix.
Okay, let me see if I can make the important points.
My most recent video on potting soil, this one is about pine fines or pine bark mulch; http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2018/03/potting-soil-can-use-make-potting-soil/
Just in! This mix is actually pretty good, https://www.amleo.com/berger-bark-growing-mix-3-cu-ft/p/BM7/. If nothing else gives you an idea of what a good mix should be.
1. First of all, it is confusing because there are so many options that make for a good mix. A lot of it has to do with what is available to you in your area.
2. Pea gravel. I used to add pea gravel to my well rotted hardwood bark mulch but I’ve learned that adding pine bark is really a better option. In small quantities pine bark is often sold by the bag and called soil conditioner in the box stores.
3. Rotted hardwood bark mulch is still a good option, I used it for years with great success. It only failed me when I tried to really stock up (50 yards worth) then it rotted too much and didn’t drain well. That’s when I started mixing in large amounts of pine bark.
4. Growers actually use pine bark fresh because even as it ages it really doesn’t change a lot.
5. So right now my ideal mix is very heavy in pine bark and to that I add either commercial compost or well rotted hardwood bark mulch.
6. But what I really do is buy a load (90 yards) of pine bark then I start working that into the potting mix that we are current using. I think it’s important for me to stay ahead of the wave by adding more pine bark before I am out of soil. Right now I have a large pile of pine bark that’s been sitting here since ???? early summer I think. And there is a part of my potting soil pile that is far too aged and compacted so on my to do list is to blend these two piles together before spring.
7. Yes, I now have a front end loader that makes this easy. But at this place, http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2016/03/mikes-first-backyard-nursery/, I used a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a rototiller. I usually kept about 10 yards on hand and always replenished my pile before it ran out using the old to mix with the new.
8. But back then I never turned the entire pile. That would have been crazy. I’m too lazy to turn compost! Or as I like to think of it, I value my time more than that.
9. Instead when I added fresh material, bark mulch, commercial compost or pea gravel to my pile, I simply put it on top. I’d use a two by twelve as a ramp to get the wheelbarrow up on top of the pile. I built the pile like a “Dagwood Sandwich”, you might have to Google that. Layers of materials. Then when I needed soil I would simply rototill one corner and get an awesome mix that I’d shovel on to the bench by hand.
10. And that’s where the legless potting bench came in. I’d rest one end on the pile so it would be nice and close for shoveling, then the other end on blocks or a saw horse. http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/01/homemade-mobile-potting-bench-it-has-removable-wheels/
11. So yeah, today I do things very differently, but I started exactly where all of you are today.
No matter what you use, it doesn’t have to be my mix, just pick a potting soil that somebody else here is using with great success. Bagged soil? Sure if that’s what you want to do. I have no idea how much it costs to fill a one gallon with a bagged mix but I am curious about that if anybody wants to share than number with us.
Here are some tips on getting good potting soil;
Looking online for mulch is probably not the best place to look because many of the dealers who sell mulch really have little to no web presence at all. I’m sure there has to be some hardwood bark available in New Jersey.
I’d pick up the phone and start calling around. Garden Centers, landscapers and excavators will know who sells bulk hardwood bark mulch. These dealers are often hidden away on some side street.
I’d take a full day and visit as many garden centers and nurseries in your area that you can. Browse, ask some casual questions.
1. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk mulch.
2. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk potting soil.
3. What do most growers around here use as a potting mix.
Bulk potting soil is available, usually around $55 a yard, but worth it. But it’s not readily available in all areas and in most cases you need to send a truck to get it.
But it won’t cost anything to ask these questions. You’ll either get really good, answers, might get the brush off, or you might find somebody who loves to talk about growing plants and will bury you in valuable information.
Good info here about potting soil, http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/12/mike-mcgroartys-secret-bed-building-and-potting-soil-recipe/
and here;
http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/10/how-to-make-your-own-awesome-potting-soil/
Ok. The place I was at has dyed mulch and dyed tree bark. If I use the bark will the dye affect the plants?
Thanks!
Alva,
I would assume the dye is harmless to plants.
Ok thanks!
Mike, i’ve been following your post for sometime . Would like to know what different levels that you have in the way of programs and money cost. I’ve seen your 97 or 57 Dollar programs . Just getting started what would you recommend and thanks Mike
John,
Not to sell you, but to be realistic, if you want to get up to speed as fast as possible and not be confused by a lot of things I suggest you start with our backyard growing system and with that you’ll have the option of adding on two of my best books. After that, and do it as soon as possible, take the test drive of the members area for $7 for 30 days. The University? It’s a great value, but I’d do the other options first. Members area is here and it is open now, http://backyardgrowers.com/join. The grow system and other products are here, http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/10/backyard-nursery-tools-of-the-trade-things-to-turn-you-into-a-successful-grower/, the grow system will be available for another week or so, then it’s likely to be off the market for a while.
THANK YOU again for making down-to-earth, non-fussy, REAL videos to help us! So I followed your instructions carefully and stuck a hundred blackberry cuttings into a bed outside, overwintered but there is no sign of growth…even though the blackberries in the field have all leafed out. Was I supposed to water during the winter? Do I need to start watering them well now? Just a wonderin’ what I did wrong.
; 0 )
Diane,
I don’t know how blackberries do as hardwood cuttings, never tried them. You need to water in winter if it’s really dry. Try them as softwood cuttings in June. http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/01/easy-summertime-plant-propagation-techniques-can-home/
Stick gardening!! How fun! Those kids are cute
Hello Mr McGroarty,
I would appreciate it a lot if you could advise me on how to take with me coming August shrub cuttings to my home country, Lebanon (Middle East), . Please let me know how if it is OK to re-cut them into smaller pieces and how to pack them and place them in a suitcase taking into consideration the travel will take around 24 hours.
Thanks a lot in advance and best regards,
Attachments area
Ramzi,
You could pack them in a bag and make them very wet, that might work. But more importantly than that, shipping plant material across the border without the proper paperwork is usually not allow. For sure you wouldn’t want to ship any kind of plant parts into the U.S. and many other countries are just as strict.
Thanks a lot for your advise. I really appreciate it.
Many years ago..
What is the mixture of potting soil used in the flats?
Thanks
Rose,
See this on potting soil;
Okay, let me see if I can make the important points.
My most recent video on potting soil, this one is about pine fines or pine bark mulch; http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2018/03/potting-soil-can-use-make-potting-soil/
Just in! This mix is actually pretty good, https://www.amleo.com/berger-bark-growing-mix-3-cu-ft/p/BM7/. If nothing else gives you an idea of what a good mix should be.
1. First of all, it is confusing because there are so many options that make for a good mix. A lot of it has to do with what is available to you in your area.
2. Pea gravel. I used to add pea gravel to my well rotted hardwood bark mulch but I’ve learned that adding pine bark is really a better option. In small quantities pine bark is often sold by the bag and called soil conditioner in the box stores.
3. Rotted hardwood bark mulch is still a good option, I used it for years with great success. It only failed me when I tried to really stock up (50 yards worth) then it rotted too much and didn’t drain well. That’s when I started mixing in large amounts of pine bark.
4. Growers actually use pine bark fresh because even as it ages it really doesn’t change a lot.
5. So right now my ideal mix is very heavy in pine bark and to that I add either commercial compost or well rotted hardwood bark mulch.
6. But what I really do is buy a load (90 yards) of pine bark then I start working that into the potting mix that we are current using. I think it’s important for me to stay ahead of the wave by adding more pine bark before I am out of soil. Right now I have a large pile of pine bark that’s been sitting here since ???? early summer I think. And there is a part of my potting soil pile that is far too aged and compacted so on my to do list is to blend these two piles together before spring.
7. Yes, I now have a front end loader that makes this easy. But at this place, http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2016/03/mikes-first-backyard-nursery/, I used a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a rototiller. I usually kept about 10 yards on hand and always replenished my pile before it ran out using the old to mix with the new.
8. But back then I never turned the entire pile. That would have been crazy. I’m too lazy to turn compost! Or as I like to think of it, I value my time more than that.
9. Instead when I added fresh material, bark mulch, commercial compost or pea gravel to my pile, I simply put it on top. I’d use a two by twelve as a ramp to get the wheelbarrow up on top of the pile. I built the pile like a “Dagwood Sandwich”, you might have to Google that. Layers of materials. Then when I needed soil I would simply rototill one corner and get an awesome mix that I’d shovel on to the bench by hand.
10. And that’s where the legless potting bench came in. I’d rest one end on the pile so it would be nice and close for shoveling, then the other end on blocks or a saw horse. http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/01/homemade-mobile-potting-bench-it-has-removable-wheels/
11. So yeah, today I do things very differently, but I started exactly where all of you are today.
No matter what you use, it doesn’t have to be my mix, just pick a potting soil that somebody else here is using with great success. Bagged soil? Sure if that’s what you want to do. I have no idea how much it costs to fill a one gallon with a bagged mix but I am curious about that if anybody wants to share than number with us.
Here are some tips on getting good potting soil;
Looking online for mulch is probably not the best place to look because many of the dealers who sell mulch really have little to no web presence at all. I’m sure there has to be some hardwood bark available in New Jersey.
I’d pick up the phone and start calling around. Garden Centers, landscapers and excavators will know who sells bulk hardwood bark mulch. These dealers are often hidden away on some side street.
I’d take a full day and visit as many garden centers and nurseries in your area that you can. Browse, ask some casual questions.
1. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk mulch.
2. Do you know of anybody in the area that sells bulk potting soil.
3. What do most growers around here use as a potting mix.
Bulk potting soil is available, usually around $55 a yard, but worth it. But it’s not readily available in all areas and in most cases you need to send a truck to get it.
But it won’t cost anything to ask these questions. You’ll either get really good, answers, might get the brush off, or you might find somebody who loves to talk about growing plants and will bury you in valuable information.
Good info here about potting soil, http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/12/mike-mcgroartys-secret-bed-building-and-potting-soil-recipe/
and here;
http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2015/10/how-to-make-your-own-awesome-potting-soil/
I live in florida, now. Not a freeze all year. Can’t I hardwood cutting root all year except dog days. I am rooting so many things as there are so many tropicals and so many other plants that It looks like Hawaii here with all of the tropicals
Julia,
You can root all year, but the wood is only hard and super durable during the winter. During the growing season the wood is soft, pliable and fragile.
MIKE,
On June 25, 2019 at 9:24:00 AM, Me Robert M ([email protected]) wrote:
> I stuck 10 Red Stick Dogwoods and 10 Forsythia a couple days ago and put them in sand in 2 plastic shoeboxes, with holes in the bottom, and put them in a white trash bag and put some water in for humidity. I shut the bag, but didn’t tie a knot, just polled it tight.
>
> How long, if all works out okay, must I wait to check for roots and move them to pots?
Robert,
Realistically they should be rooted in 6 to 8 weeks. Maybe not well enough to pot, but well enough that you could remove the bag and place them in the shade. In the mean time open the bag about once a week and allow fresh air in to keep things from molding.