Tools, Technique, and What Really Matters
Digging up a mature tree by hand isn’t pretty, it isn’t easy, and it definitely isn’t fast.
But it can be done with the right tools, the right approach, and realistic expectations.
In this video, I walk through the full process of digging a large magnolia tree by hand from sharpening tools, to trenching the root ball, to dealing with loose soil and getting burlap underneath without everything falling apart.
This is real-world nursery work, not theory.
The Most Important Tool for Digging Trees by Hand
Without question, the most important tool in this job is a nursery spade.
A good nursery spade is:
- Heavy
- All steel
- Sharp (or sharpened before you start)
- Built to cut roots, not bounce off them
Lightweight shovels are fine for planting flowers.
They are useless when you’re trying to cut through real roots.
Weight matters.
When you swing a heavy spade and put it in the ground, something happens.
That’s the difference.
Yes, a quality nursery spade costs money.
But if you don’t loan it to someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing, it’ll last you forever.
Why Sharpening Your Spade Matters
Before the first shovel goes into the ground, the edge needs to be sharpened.
A sharp spade:
- Cuts roots cleanly instead of tearing them
- Saves energy
- Makes every swing more effective
If you’re hitting roots with a dull blade, you’re just wearing yourself out.
This step alone can be the difference between finishing the job and quitting halfway through.
Trenching Around the Tree Comes First
You don’t just start prying the tree out of the ground.
The process starts with:
- Digging a trench all the way around the tree
- Defining the root ball
- Gradually tapering inward as you go deeper
This gives you access to the roots so you can cut them intentionally instead of fighting them blindly.
It also keeps the root ball from collapsing early — at least as much as soil conditions allow.
Using a Narrow Spade for Cleanup Work
Once the trench is established, a narrower, lighter spade becomes useful.
This type of spade is great for:
- Cleaning out the trench
- Shaping the root ball
- Working in tight areas
It’s not designed to cut large roots or dig big trees — but it shines during the cleanup phase.
Every tool has a job.
Use the wrong one, and you’ll know it immediately.
Burlapping a Root Ball That Has No Bottom
This is where things get interesting.
In sandy or gravelly soil, you’re not going to get a perfect, firm root ball.
There’s just no way around that.
That’s why modern nurseries use:
- Mechanical tree spades
- Wire baskets lined with burlap
When you’re doing this by hand, you’re improvising.
Rope, burlap, gravity, and patience all come into play — and sometimes plan A turns into plan B.
And plan C.
And maybe plan D.
It’s not pretty, but the goal is simple:
Keep the root ball together long enough to move and replant it.
Moving a Heavy Tree Without Destroying Your Yard
Once the tree is free, it still has to be moved.
A garden slide makes this possible without:
- Tearing up the yard
- Destroying your back
- Fighting friction the whole way
It’s a simple tool, but when you’re moving something this heavy, simple tools make a big difference.
Real Nursery Work Isn’t Perfect — And That’s Okay
This isn’t a showroom demonstration.
The root ball isn’t perfect.
The burlap job isn’t pretty.
And there are plenty of people who could point out what they would have done differently.
That’s fine.
What matters is:
- The tree is intact
- The roots are protected
- The job gets done
That’s how real nursery work looks.
Final Thoughts
Digging a large tree by hand takes:
- The right tools
- The right order of operations
- And the willingness to adapt when things don’t go perfectly
If you’ve never done it before, this gives you a realistic look at what’s involved — not just the highlights.
And like I always say…
Stay inspired.
Mike. I am needing to relocate two Mulberry trees, one of which has gotten several feet tall and I know is going to have a lengthy tap root. What can I do to improve the survival rate of this transplant?
Dave,
I don’t know that it will have a tap root but in any case just get 11″ of root ball for every one inch of caliper of the stem measured six inches from the soil. And do it before it makes buds in the spring. As soon as the ground thaws.
Beautiful job but where’s your help? You are in inspiration
Help? I don’t have any help anymore.
I’ve heard those narrow spades/shovels called a “trench” shovel. I first met it when I was doing that, digging a long trench for a new water line.
You are correct.
Wow, Mike! You have obviously done this a time or two! Well done! You knew exactly where to place the webbing so it was well balanced and wouldn’t fall out. And all by yourself, too. Very, very impressive, Mike. Thank you so much for showing us all how it can be done.
For smaller trees, manageable (barely) with 2-3 strong men, I use a Root Slayer shovel to prune the roots 6 months in advance of the move. This encourages the tree to grow more feeder roots within the area that will be dug out, helping with the transplant success.
The Garden Slide has been a very useful tool for me too. Unlike a wheelbarrow, you can toss this in the back of a car. I use it every weekend when selling nursery plants at the local Farmer’s Market, to get those heavy pots from my station wagon over to the market tables. Here is a link for people to buy one: https://www.amleo.com/leonard-gardenglidetransporter/p/AG1
And here is a link for the Root Slayer shovel: https://radiusgarden.com/collections/root-slayer
When I first used one of these, it was so incredible I went to both the hardware stores in my community and recommended that they carry them. They did.
Thank you Diane!
I have just two comments…. if you’re using a grinder, you need to be wearing safety glasses or a face shield, know that from my own experiences.
Second one is this. I’m 73 myself and just dang impressed by the amount of work you did there. Pretty or not, you got it done. And it wasn’t as ugly as you let on! Nice job!
That long narrow shovel is called a ‘track shovel’ in the coal fields.
Thanks for doing what you do, Sir!
That was a lot of hard work. i have a small Magnolia that does not like where it is so i planed on moving it. This is very informative but i will get help in the process. i never reized.how much digging would be involved. great jon Mije as.always.
my husband was a nurseryman. He dug pine and beech trees mostly, in the early 1960s .
Before I knew him .I never saw it done by hand .
Thanks , Mike
Wow, Mike! I know how difficult that job was. I hand dug a large Crepe Myrtle and it was quite the wrestling match. You’ve given me some excellent ideas for the tools I’ll need to make the job a bit easier the next time. As always, I really appreciate all that you do…Kevin
Wow, that surely was a lot of work!!! I will be 73 in May and I know there is no way I could have done this task. You certainly are a hard worker! Thank you for sharing your technique.
Hope I get to see it blooming in one of your videos!
Take care and God bless.